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All You Can Eat
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O Henry! 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Scott Ayers, Hank Means & Mike Strassman 1992
Page Views: 297
Submitted By: Tom Helvie on Jul 21, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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BETA PHOTO: All You Can Eat Cliff Right Center Topo

Description 

A bouldery undercling move starts things off, leading to a kinda scary second bolt clip. At the horizontal break it is possible to traverse right to a shake and then go up and back left, but it is easier just to continue up the flake/crack. Either way, the crux is surmounting the bulge. Easier face climbing leads to a balancy move to gain the anchors.

Protection 

6 quickdraws, open shuts


Photos of O Henry! Slideshow Add Photo
BFK at the crux
BETA PHOTO: BFK at the crux
BFK about to pull over the bulge
BETA PHOTO: BFK about to pull over the bulge

Comments on O Henry! Add Comment
Show which comments
By david goldstein
Jul 29, 2006

I found the start much harder than anything else on the pitch. This pitch would be a near classic at a lot of other areas.
By C Miller
Administrator
Oct 31, 2006
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

A short route with a boulder problem style crux. Not too bad for the grade if you read it right straightaway or are able to hang out and decipher it.
By andy patterson
Administrator
From: Santa Barbara, CA
Nov 13, 2007

For some reason, I found the moves above the last clip (right before the anchors) to be the most hair-raising. The initial bulge is particularly tricky if you can't read it right away, otherwise the climb isn't physically too difficult afterwards.
By PDF
Jun 8, 2009

Really fun!!
By BFK
From: San Francisco
Nov 28, 2011
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

Dido on the the moves above the last clip,...certainly thought provoking if you end up to the right of the anchors. Super fun route though, I thought the first sequence was the best part.