O Henry! 5.11c
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 50 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.11c [details] |
| FA: | Scott Ayers, Hank Means & Mike Strassman 1992 |
| Submitted By: | Tom Helvie on Jul 21, 2006 |
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BETA PHOTO: All You Can Eat Cliff Right Center Topo
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Description A bouldery undercling move starts things off, leading to a kinda scary second bolt clip. At the horizontal break it is possible to traverse right to a shake and then go up and back left, but it is easier just to continue up the flake/crack. Either way, the crux is surmounting the bulge. Easier face climbing leads to a balancy move to gain the anchors.
Protection 6 quickdraws, open shuts
BETA PHOTO: BFK at the crux
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BETA PHOTO: BFK about to pull over the bulge
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By david goldstein
Jul 29, 2006
| I found the start much harder than anything else on the pitch. This pitch would be a near classic at a lot of other areas. |
By C Miller
Administrator
Oct 31, 2006
rating: 5.11c
| A short route with a boulder problem style crux. Not too bad for the grade if you read it right straightaway or are able to hang out and decipher it. |
By andy patterson
Administrator
From: Santa Barbara, CA
Nov 13, 2007
| For some reason, I found the moves above the last clip (right before the anchors) to be the most hair-raising. The initial bulge is particularly tricky if you can't read it right away, otherwise the climb isn't physically too difficult afterwards. |
By PDF
Jun 8, 2009
| Really fun!! |
By BFK
From: San Francisco
Nov 28, 2011
rating: 5.11c
| Dido on the the moves above the last clip,...certainly thought provoking if you end up to the right of the anchors. Super fun route though, I thought the first sequence was the best part. |
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