Sign Up  |   Log In:Login with Facebook
REI Community
Punch and Judy Towers
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Good To Go S 
Honeymoon's Over S 
JJ Goes to Hollywood T 
Just Do It S 
Lemmonade S 
Lizard Marmalade Direct T 
Lizard Marmelade, Girlie Man's var. T 
Mondo Bizzaro T 
Power Hungry S 
Sheik Yerbouti T 
Triple Play S 

Mondo Bizzaro 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 155'
Original:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
FA: Paul Davidson, Steve Grossman, 1984. Direct start, Steiger, 1986
Page Views: 20
Submitted By: John Steiger on Aug 23, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]

Description 

Mondo is yet another climb that apparently faded into obscurity as the result of changing ethics (this was put up from the ground, with no hanging), but also probably because of the stuck porta-potty discussed on the crag's main page (incredible). When Paul led the crux pitch in 1984, he may have had the best crimp strength in the state, even rivaling that of Bob Murray. Another local grown climber (he went to Tucson High with Grossman), Paul went to NAU (where he put up a bunch of hard routes, e.g., Sail Away & Davidson Dihedral at Paradise Forks) but came back to Tucson for a few years during the 80s before heading to New Mexico. Paul is really, really old now. Anyway, this was a test piece at the time --– crimpy and technical (I recall doing some funky, dynamic toe stab way out right).

The original start is in the chimney. Cruise up it a short ways, clip a bolt, then step left onto the face. Several bolts protect the crux section up into a corner. Height is a definite advantage. Climb the corner until possible to step left to intermittent cracks (5.10) and belay from bolts. (2) Easier climbing finishes up the crack above. The direct start (5.11-) avoids the chimney. (Note: The FA party for Triple Play may have bolted over some of the upper part of the first pitch).

Location 

Start out of the easy chimney to the right of Lizard Marmalade’s crack (right of the bolt line for Triple Play).

Protection 

Standard Tucson trad rack.


Comments on Mondo Bizzaro Add Comment
Show which comments
By Geir
From: Tucson, AZ
Aug 23, 2011

Just read the description of this climb ... ground up 5.12 with no hanging. Awesome!
By Paul Davidson
Dec 1, 2015

While I'd love to take Steiger's credit, I think this route was Peter Noebels and I. While it was my brain child, I put the bolts in on the lead but hanging from a hook. Which was scary enough. Frankly, I don't recall if I led this thing with hangs but I do recall working it with Peter a couple of times before he got the clean lead from the ground up. So the FA lead S/B credited to Peter.

As I recall, it's a bit testy. I believe we put in two bolts, gear in the corner and then Peter ran to the top, up the corner and then launched for the summit. But take this history with some suspicion...

We did do it ground up with no hanging. I mean, we'd fall and come back down to the rest. Peter's lead was clean all the way. I believe the 2nd managed the same, FWIW (which ain't much.)

The Definitive
Climbing Resource

Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run

Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps

Backcountry, Sidecountry
& Secret Stashes

Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!