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 ADVANCED
Punch and Judy Towers
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Good To Go S 
Just Do It S 
Lizard Marmalade Direct T 
Lizard Marmelade, Girlie Man's var. T 
Mondo Bizzaro T 
Power Hungry S 
Sheik Yerbouti T 
Triple Play S 

Mondo Bizzaro 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 155'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
FA: Paul Davidson, Steve Grossman, 1984. Direct start, Steiger, 1986
Page Views: 194
Submitted By: John Steiger on Aug 23, 2011

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Description 

Mondo is yet another climb that apparently faded into obscurity as the result of changing ethics (this was put up from the ground, with no hanging), but also probably because of the stuck porta-potty discussed on the crag's main page (incredible). When Paul led the crux pitch in 1984, he may have had the best crimp strength in the state, even rivaling that of Bob Murray. Another local grown climber (he went to Tucson High with Grossman), Paul went to NAU (where he put up a bunch of hard routes, e.g., Sail Away & Davidson Dihedral at Paradise Forks) but came back to Tucson for a few years during the 80s before heading to New Mexico. He’s really old now. Anyway, this was a test piece at the time – crimpy and technical (I recall doing some funky, dynamic toe stab way out right).

The original start is in the chimney. Cruise up it a short ways, clip a bolt, then step left onto the face. Several bolts protect the crux section up into a corner. Height is a definite advantage. Climb the corner until possible to step left to intermittent cracks (5.10) and belay from bolts. (2) Easier climbing finishes up the crack above. The direct start (5.11-) avoids the chimney. (Note: The FA party for Triple Play may have bolted over some of the upper part of the first pitch).


Location 

Start out of the easy chimney to the right of Lizard Marmalade’s crack (right of the bolt line for Triple Play).


Protection 

Standard Tucson trad rack.



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By Geir
From: Tucson, AZ
Aug 23, 2011

Just read the description of this climb ... ground up 5.12 with no hanging. Awesome!