This is a fairly sustained climb for the first two-thirds and then the climbing eases up a bit and the crack widens. This route protects very well over its entire length. Closed for a number of years because the rock is slowing migrating outward. This may have made the route harder. It certainly felt more like a 5.8 than a 5.7 to me, but this could just be because of its sustained nature. Re-opened as of Fall 2005.
RCM&W #42, p.165.
Location
Piece of Cake is the prominent crack on the right side of the large rectangular block first visible upon entering the Minnesota strip.
Protection
Nuts, Cams, Hexes. The bottom takes medium sized stuff (large nuts to small hexes). The top takes larger stuff. Standard top rope setup with extra webbing (60 ft should more than cover it.) The rock is somewhat broken toward the edge of the cliff and the best placements are a ways back from the top of the cliff.
Caught my first leader fall on this route in 1976. A finger sized stopper and my hip belay was all that was between my partner's good health and the ground. It was also one of my first leads.
RSS Feed
Slideshow
