Type: Trad, TR, 70 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 4,100 total · 27/month
Shared By: Ian Harmon on Jul 25, 2006
Admins: Kris Gorny, chris tregge

You & This Route


61 Opinions

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Description

Climb the dihedral with a small finger crack (crux), after surmounting the finger crack work left and then angle up right to the top, basically follow the easiest way to the top after the finger crack. A fun route. Closed for many years but re-opened as of Fall 2005.
  • RCM&W #44, p.165.

Location

This route is immediate around the corner left from Good Knight. The rock is lighter in color here due to the recent rock fall.

Protection

Standard rack emphasis on smaller gear. Standard top rope set up.

Photos

Laura Stringer
St. Paul, MN
 
Laura Stringer   St. Paul, MN
 
Once you're at the first roof to work around, there is a pigeon nest with active occupants on the right. If disturbed, they tend to dive-bomb at you... which is a bit annoying once you are at the immediate next crux requiring focus.. Oct 31, 2013
Kevin Jarta  
 
What a fantastic crux. Have seen it climbed in many different fashions and tried them all, each equally as fun. Wish the route had more climbing like it. Avoid it on wet days because you get no friction for smearing and because it activates the dried pigeon poop and you get lungs full of that awful smell right before the crux.

Goes great on gear. Few small nuts and a small cam. Sep 24, 2014
Tyler Tworek
Boulder, CO
5.10a/b
Tyler Tworek   Boulder, CO
5.10a/b
When compared to similar rated climbs in the area such as Sentinel Crack or The bulge (both 10a), I found the crux moves on Fallen Knight to be harder. Also looking at the relative difficulty of Lost Ego (5.8+ vs 5.9), I would have expected Fallen Knight to be far closer in difficulty. Given these two observations alone, I would give Fallen Knight a solid 10a/b grade for the crux moves getting through the tips corner. Oct 25, 2018