Avg: 3 from 1 vote
Routes in Minnesota Strip
|Number 6 a.k.a. The Bulge T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Armor All T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Blue Moon T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a|
|Columeister T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|Column Direct T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a|
|Column, The T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|Fallen Knight T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Fancy Dancer T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|Good Knight T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Jammermeister T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a|
|Organic TR 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c|
|Piece of Cake T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Piece of Pie T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Pink Pants Delight (unknown) T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a|
|Rose Bush T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|Station 62 T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Type:||TR, 40 ft|
|Page Views:||2,255 total, 18/month|
|Shared By:||ferrells on Oct 21, 2007|
|Admins:||Kris Gorny, Chris treggE|
Description6 years!? Seriously?! Come on, MN! I know it isn't the Eiger, but this thing is fun. I'm leaving again in about a year, and it would be nice if someone repeated this (and downgraded it to 12a) before I left. Someone step up for god's sake.
So the description I wrote in 2007:
The solid, orangey gold rock to the left of Fallen Knight: it consists of three small boulder problems where each one is harder than the last. Starts with easy climbing up to a thin seam, which can be surmounted using a horizontal hand jam below, and making a high reach to good holds. An easy deadpoint leads to a horizontal crack.
The next section is the most fun - long reaches between a blank arete and a couple of sloping crimps, with the wall steadily tilting a little more overhanging as you go. This sets you up for the final six feet, and the crux, which involved some serious tomfoolery, not to mention a couple of weeks of doubt as to whether I would be able to do it.
Figuring out these moves was the most rewarding part of the process of putting up this route, so I'll leave the details out, but make sure to pull a couple of techy moves out of your quiver for the crux.
The last move is a nice little throw to the positive finish, and a boulder-style topout. The grade is just a guess - it isn't as painful as nearby Genetic Control, but was harder for me, and took a little longer.
A fun toprope on good orange rock that doesn't feel like most of the Taylor's Falls stuff. Ultimately, this is a route of entirely different character than anything else at the crag (and MN), and now a personal favorite.