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South Face of the Flatiron, The 
War and Peace Cave 


Hells Canyon

Submitted By: David Stephens on Feb 7, 2006
Administrator: Nathan Fisher
Latitude: 45.1292  Longitude: -116.7380 
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Coming out of the alcove(two pitches up on The Sou...


Description 

Hells Canyon is the deepest river gorge in US. The canyon has a very long history that goes back before history. Native Americas had long ago traveled in these hills, climbed into the caves and probably every other nook and cranny of this entire canyon. With respect, we now also travel in these hills.

The area around Hells Canyon Dam is covered with limestone walls of all sizes and shapes. Modern rock climbing in a place like Hells Canyon takes it to the top of any scale. A small group of climbers from Eastern Oregon and Idaho and did a lot of early routes just off the Allison Creek Trail. (Now, you could make 4 weekend trips in a row and not hike more than 15 minutes up this trail). Then in the late '90s, the wild talk of ancient virgin limestone down in Hell's Canyon made its way to Spokane and to the drills of two veteran climbers who helped set the pace for new routes.

There are over 400 routes, so if you see a wall that looks good, take a hike. Climbs are from 5.7 to 5.13+ and are 40 feet to 300 feet long. Short jug halls, roofs of caves, monster clip-ups. The camping is great and free. Being only 90 minutes from the Interstate (I-84) makes this place one of the gems of Idaho!


Getting There 

Directions: From the east on I-84 at Fruitland, take U.S. route 95 north to Cambridge, Idaho, then left on SR 71 to Oxbow, OR. From the west, get off I-84 at exit 302 SR 86 to the town of Oxbow, Oregon.

Cross over the river to the Idaho side, then 15 miles to Big Bar. Camping is on the left; Allison Creek is on the right.



Featured Route For Hells Canyon
The start of War and Peace

War and Peace 5.12d  ID : Hells Canyon : War and Peace Cave
Amazing pocket jugs on a 45 degree wall leads to a sequential crux finish...[more]


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By mikec
From: Silver City, New Mexico
Mar 30, 2006

Just for information most of the routes on South Flat Iron are more than 100'. Don't plan on getting down with one 60M rope.

By David Stephens
From: Spokane WA.
Jun 25, 2006

If the route is over 100 ft than there is a lower off at some mid-point, so you can get off with a 60m rope.

Hope this helps more.
DRS

By will nesse
Dec 12, 2006

This is a great area with not many people. Watch for rattlesnakes and the ubiquitous poison ivy. Great multi-pitch adventure sport and single-pitch mostly moderate (5.9-5.11) sport climbs.

By Matt TeNgaio
Sep 18, 2007

So does anyone have at least a rudimentary guide for Hell's Canyon? If there's so much development going on, someone has to be keeping track, eh? The place looks amazing.

By David Stephens
From: Spokane WA.
Sep 26, 2007

There is not even a rudimentary guide,(maybe a little one is out there) but the routes are being tracked. We love the place so much and think that a guide might just be a waste of ink and paper. The place is Amazing!

By Jim Healy
Dec 2, 2007

Actually, I have a rudimentary guide to Hell's Canyon, but it is REALLY rudimentary. Hand drawn and hard to follow. The best thing to do is just go and hope you meet someone who actually knows the place. A guidebook would ruin this place. Just go and climb and enjoy the free camping while it lasts. Not knowing the ratings actually makes it exciting. Best of luck.