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Ewe Betch Ewe S 
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Ewe.F.O S 

Ewe Betch Ewe 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Tim Toula, April 2004
Page Views: 670
Submitted By: grk10vq on Apr 28, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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Description 

Ever feel left out of the screaming match between man and boulder? Now's your chance! Hosting an abundance of stacked cruxes, Ewe Betch Ewe begins hard and ends even harder.

A few Watch Me! moves get things going, a rest is gained at a protection pod and then the real action begins. The Delicate Crux is getting onto the blank face, the Power Crux with a tough clip then soon follows. Passing two more bolts, gain a ledge with a no hands rest. Next up is the "Whoa Nelly" Crux, recharge on the ledge and get creative. Balance, finesse, power and luck will get you through....can you do it? EWE BETCH EWE can!

Intense and involved.

Location 

Just above the old corral lies a band of rock. Top dead center of the Corral Crag is a 60 foot tall blob hosting five routes. Ewe Betch Ewe is the third bolted route in from the left. Look for a hand sized pod after bolt one. This is just right of EWE.F.O. and just left of Ewe for Real.

Protection 

Eight or nine draws and a #2 camalot for six bolts and a chain anchor. Finish up and right on Ewe for Real anchor.


Comments on Ewe Betch Ewe Add Comment
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By tenesmus
Apr 30, 2010

This thing is a lot of fun. Just like the boulder problems, only you get to do 3 or 4 of them in a row.
By zenetopia
Apr 1, 2013
rating: 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a

This route is a lot of fun, however, i am wondering if someone can set my confusion to rest... does this have its own anchors? Or do they share with the .10 on the right, or the .11 on the left? After pulling the last crux and gaining the ledge, i could not see anchors specifically for this route...so i traversed a little and clipped the chains for the .11 and rapped down. Am i missing something? (have the anchors been removed for any reason?) Also, just bought the new west desert guide and it seems to be full of misinformation...anyone else experience this?
By Boissal
From: Small Lake, UT
Apr 1, 2013
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

I think I remember traversing a ways left to the anchors of the 11.

Re: the book, I think in some cases the lines on the topos are drawn approximately but when coupled with the description things make sense. There are a number of instances of known sandbags that were left as is (can get annoying when you're talking a full number grade) and sometimes the gear recommendation is off but otherwise things are much better than the 1st edition (for Ibex).
By zenetopia
Apr 1, 2013
rating: 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a

Hey, thanks for the response! I just wanted to make sure i wasn't fully confused. Thanks, again.
By grk10vq
Administrator
Apr 8, 2013

finish where you want, but the natural trend of this line ends up and right on the Ewe for Real anchor. its also a slightly better option when you have a second following or cleaning.