From the standard route on Sunlight Peak leave the trail at about 13,700' and head up a steep slope to the base of the summit block. This approach is 3rd class but rather loose and steep for about 300 feet.
A short 5.7 pitch leads to the base of the overhanging crack. This crack is a perfect size for jamming but is rather sustained and made more difficult by the altitude. The start is made easier by a ramp you can work your feet along, but the ramp eventually is too far left. The crack reminded me of Supercrack where every move may be "only 5.9" but it is sustained and difficult to recover, especially at nearly 14,000'. Look for places for wired stoppers and smaller cams to save hand-size pieces.
Near the summit the angle kicks back to vertical which makes it slightly easier. A fixed anchor on top facilitates 2 raps back to the base.
You can also aid the crack at A1, which would require a significant rack. The first ascent proceeded up a somewhat different route, however. Instead of tackling the crack from the bottom, my father climbed an easier crack system to the notch NW of the spire. From here the upper part of the free crack is only about 7-10 feet to your right. Climb right, clip a bolt and pendulum or tension traverse into the crack and follow it to the summit. The advantage of this line is that it would not take a huge amount of gear to aid. However, I do not recall seeing this bolt during my ascent, and it may be gone.
This is a decent climb, but it is a long way to carry a rack for 60 feet of overhanging crack.
Please add comments if you try the aid variation. I've not heard of anyone doing it since 1961.
Location
SW Face of the summit "Obelisk"
Protection
Standard rack to #3 Camalot.
History
This route was freed by Jeff Achey when he was leading a group of Outward Bound students. He free climbed the crack using only a few hexes and stoppers for protection. I don't know if any of the students were able to follow his lead.
Add CommentComments on Standard Route, Sunlight Spire
This climb took me several attempts. I made it to the base of the technical climb once (with my wife belaying) just as it started to rain. Several years later, when approaching with "rope gun" Tom Karpeichik, he pulled on a huge solid-appearing block during the 3rd class approach, and it broke free and tore up his leg as it slid past (he received a nasty laceration that required stitches). After Tom was patched up and walking down, Bill Wright was descending from Sunlight Peak and we teamed up for the ascent, but by this time it was late and looked like rain. We topped out just as a thunderstorm was coming in, and immediately rappeled off.
Sunlight Spire
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