Midnight Lightning V8
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John Bachar on "Midnight Lightning". 1982.
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Description What can you say about such a classic boulder problem that can possibly do it justice? First sent by Ron Kauk who worked it for over two months in 1978 with fellow hardman John Bachar, this line up the Columbia Boulder stands as a true milestone in modern rock climbing.
People have rated this from V7 to V9, and if you can't mantle it's going to feel downright impossible.
Start on the series of polished opening crimps, fire a right hand up to a good undercling crimp, move the left hand up, and then get ready to fly out to the Lightning Bolt hold with your feet kicking in the air (although if you're over 6ft. or so it can be done as a static move). The bottom moves are powerful but it's the infamous mantle that will throw most suitors back down into the dust. Trust your spotter and believe...
Location Right in Camp 4. Look for the chalked lightning bolt on the rock. You can't miss it.
Protection Crashpad, spotter
Kurt Smith, 1985.
No pads or spotters!
Photo by Bl...
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Jerad Friedrichs on Midnight Lightning
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Unknown climber falling off midnight Lightning
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John Bachar, 1980?
Photo by Bob Gaines.
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Ron hanging on and Nate spotting
Photo by Rick W.
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Bob Horan on Midnight Lightning.
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Another shot of the kid, 1987
photo by bob gaines
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Brad Gobright tops out.
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Gary Reno
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Gary Reno
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First crux. October 2011.
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Midnight Lightning
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| Comments on Midnight Lightning |
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By Craig Childre
From: Lubbock, Texas
Jan 2, 2008
| "In 1980, Jon Frank was the first Oklahoma climber to go to Yosemite Valley. . . The locals were amused to see Oklahoma plates pull into their parking lot, and when Jon opened his mouth the amusement turned to laughter.
"Gol-ly!" said Jon. "Look at those boulders!"
He eventually got to within one or two moves of the top of Midnight Lightning, the most notorious--and visible--boulder problem in Yosemite and one that still has only half a dozen ascents. The snickers subsided." - Oklahoma Rock by Doug Robinson
Part of Oklahoma's climbing history...this is one of the more famous boulder problems...probably due to the fact that it was the first to achieve some respect for their climbers who happily returned later
"But they had left their mark on Yosemite, the climbers' arena. This past spring, Rick McUsic and three of Oklahoma's younger climbers--the next generation--pulled into the climbers' parking lot. Seeing the Oklahoma plates, a few of the normally jaded locals held back respectfully for a few moments, then rushed over to greet the newcomers, eager for news of Duane and the boys." |
By Andy Liu
From: Bay Area, CA
Oct 10, 2011
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