BETA PHOTO: Takes the obvious wide crack to the right of the w...
Description
The clean hands start is obviously "the Good".... the middle section could be "the Bad", and for sure the wide above is "the Ugly"! This route is deceptively awkward for the 34" of real climbing it offers. I did it right side in, left side in, and stacked it, and none of them were great... or graceful. There are some tricks to all them methods, but this no place to tell them... get in there and start wiggling. Really good route with one or two interesting moves.
Location
This route goes up the obvious roof to wide crack on the south west face of the Wart. You can start low in a pit to get an extra 10 feet of extra clean thin hands if you desire. If not, step off the boulder at the base and skip the clean hands. Easy downclimb to climbers right.
Protection
I placed a 2" cam, another 2" cam, and then a #6 Wild Country Cam. If you want to pro the moves out of the pit a the start, use something in the 1.5" range. Summit takes 2" to 3" cams for an anchor.
Add PhotoPhotos of The Good, the Bad, and the Ugly
Russ leading
Susan following the roof portion.
Susan at the heart of the wide business
Susan past the business thinking this is the harde...
Add CommentComments on The Good, the Bad, and the Ugly
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By susan peplow From: what day is this? Dec 7, 2007
The "good" of this route is definitely the start. Girly hands fit perfect with a 2" clean crack, fantastic jams and featured nuggets or dishes for the feet. Transitioning through the "bad" isn't really all that bad. The "ugly", although short, works you over. Nice route, nearly as grainy as the boulders at the base. Fun stuff for any WideFriday™
The Wart
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