Burning Desire 5.12b
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Open, with restrictions: Park on the street MORE INFO >>>
Do not drive into the Quarry. You will be ticketed $150 for trespassing. Climbing access is open, just park on the street.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project.
You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
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Description Solid crimpy sequence off the ground leads to some long and/or technical moves. Shallows out a bit for some easy flake climbing to some steep jugs all for an interesting finish which will require some creative footwork on some slopey arete/dihedral.
Location Directly right of the popular warm-up Flexercise.
Protection 12-15 bolts with double ring anchors at the top.
| Comments on Burning Desire |
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By gregory huey
From: Pasadena, CA
Nov 18, 2011
rating: 5.12b
| Bagged the redpoint on Nov 17, 2011
I'd say the lower crux is definitely 12b. The upper crux - the blunt arete just below the P1 anchors - I'm less sure about. Originally it seemed very difficult to me, so I would have gone with 12b here also. But, its technical and balancy instead of strenuous. With practice on a specific sequence it now doesn't seem nearly so difficult. This crux was not at all intuitive to me. Now I'd say perhaps 11c/d - but still not really sure.
One cool aspect of the bottom crux is I have my way of doing it (short-person's - right of the bolt-line), and there is a totally different tall-person's way (left of the bolt-line, and atleast one other way I've seen it done. There are lots of options, which also contributes to the difficulty.
The route is also fairly sustained - there is a crimp-fest right after the lower crux (perhaps 11d?) and some excellent bouldery moves before the top crux. And some more 11d stuff in the middle. Its great all around. |
By Choncho
Feb 4, 2013
| Good quality. Fun Moves. |
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