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Burning Desire 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
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Page Views: 611
Submitted By: Tyler Quesnel on Nov 1, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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Open, with restrictions: Park on the street MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Solid crimpy sequence off the ground leads to some long and/or technical moves. Shallows out a bit for some easy flake climbing to some steep jugs all for an interesting finish which will require some creative footwork on some slopey arete/dihedral.

Location 

Directly right of the popular warm-up Flexercise.

Protection 

12-15 bolts with double ring anchors at the top.


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By wizard
From: Costa Mesa, CA
Mar 11, 2015

CONDITION REPORT 
Swank Nostalgia and the upper sections of Quarryman and Burning Desire past the first anchors are currently closed due to hawks nesting next to the routes. Climbers are advised to avoid these routes until the young hawks have fledged (left the nest), probably around mid-June. Use caution on Nostalgia, The Ultimate, Hanging by a Thread, and the lower sections of Quarryman and Burning Desire, and please be sensitive to any disturbances to the nest.
By gregory huey
From: Irvine, CA
Nov 18, 2011
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

Bagged the redpoint on Nov 17, 2011

I'd say the lower crux is definitely 12b. The upper crux - the blunt arete just below the P1 anchors - I'm less sure about. Originally it seemed very difficult to me, so I would have gone with 12b here also. But, its technical and balancy instead of strenuous. With practice on a specific sequence it now doesn't seem nearly so difficult. This crux was not at all intuitive to me. Now I'd say perhaps 11c/d - but still not really sure.

One cool aspect of the bottom crux is I have my way of doing it (short-person's - right of the bolt-line), and there is a totally different tall-person's way (left of the bolt-line, and atleast one other way I've seen it done. There are lots of options, which also contributes to the difficulty.

The route is also fairly sustained - there is a crimp-fest right after the lower crux (perhaps 11d?) and some excellent bouldery moves before the top crux. And some more 11d stuff in the middle. Its great all around.
By Choncho
Feb 4, 2013

Good quality. Fun Moves.
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