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Burge Mountain (Tonasket)

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1) Western Front 
2) The Main Wall 
3) Thailand Training Wall 
4) Jungle Gym 
5) The Green Wall 
6) Middle Earth 
7) Raptor Wall 
8) The Ledge 
North Canyon 
Temp area 
Upper SE Face 
Upper South Face 
Upper SW Face 

Burge Mountain (Tonasket) Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 4,200'
Location: 48.7832, -119.2736 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 6,695
Administrators: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Sean Speegle on Jan 8, 2011
Forecast:
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80° | 55°
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83° | 55°
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84° | 55°
You & This Area
Best climbs for YOU in this area
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View to the SW (towards Tonasket in the Okanogan V...

Description 

Sunny and dry (it's high desert= BRING PLENTY OF LIQUID) with plenty of shade in the bouldering area and in some places right up to the base of the wall...area is somewhat secluded (town's population is around 1,000) the area is US Forest Service land, as far as I know camping is permitted in the area (Just PLEASE be clean about it!). There are 60 or so routes spread out among 8 or 9 smaller areas (all within half a mile) ranging from 5.6 to 5.11+, mostly sport, trad, some mixed, with a few routes having 2 or 3 pitches, fun clean rock (can't remember what kind off top of my head) with a little bit of slab climbing...areas are as follows:
1)WESTERN FRONT - 14 routes 5.3 to 5.11- mostly single pitch sport
2)THE MAIN WALL - 7 routes 5.7 to 5.11 couple of 2 pitch, 1 or 2 trad
3)THAILAND TRAINING - 3 routes (short wall) 5.10-, 5.10+, 5.11
4)THE JUNGLE GYM - 14 routes 5.7 to 5.11+, single pitch sport w/1 trad
5)THE GREEN WALL - 8 routes 5.5 to 5.10+, most sport, 2 mixed, 1 trad
6)MIDDLE EARTH - 7 routes 5.7 to 5.11-, 3 mixed,2 sport, one 3-pitch
7)THE RAPTOR - 4 routes 5.9+ to 5.11, 3 sport, 1 trad
8)THE LEDGE - 3 routes 5.6, 5.7, 5.7 - Fun, clean slab climbing

Getting There 

ask in town of Tonasket or check back here for updated address/directions/gps coordinates
approach is 7-15 minute hike from parking area to climbing, depending on which area you're headed to

Climbing Season



Weather station 7.7 miles from here

77 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',16],['2 Stars',28],['1 Star',30],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',17],['5.7',8],['5.8',8],['5.9',16],['5.10',20],['5.11',8],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Burge Mountain (Tonasket)

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Burge Mountain (Tonasket):
Beginner's Mind   5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   8) The Ledge
Guys and Dolls   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 55'   1) Western Front : Lower Wall
Gneiss Jugs   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 60'   2) The Main Wall
Opti-Mystic   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch   1) Western Front : Upper Wall
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Burge Mountain (Tonasket)

Featured Route For Burge Mountain (Tonasket)
Rock Climbing Photo: Flight of the Garuda topo

Flight of the Garuda 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b  WA : Okanogan : ... : 7) Raptor Wall
FLIGHT OF THE GARUDA 5.10d ** 95’ M (4b)Begin 5’ right of “Party Time” and climb the easy arete to the moderate bolt protected mid-face and on to the more difficult crack above. Progressively harder moves lead through the bulging roof in the recessed part of the wall. Several large cams (#3 and 4) are needed in the upper crack, chain anchors on top edge....[more]   Browse More Classics in WA

Photos of Burge Mountain (Tonasket) Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The Skyline Route
The Skyline Route
Rock Climbing Photo: Front gate, pass-through (parking just across the ...
BETA PHOTO: Front gate, pass-through (parking just across the ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Dan and Phil Gleason Thailand Training '09
Dan and Phil Gleason Thailand Training '09
Rock Climbing Photo: summit of The Pebble
summit of The Pebble
Rock Climbing Photo: Dan Gleason -Grown Up Points
Dan Gleason -Grown Up Points
Rock Climbing Photo: Burge Mountain Overview
BETA PHOTO: Burge Mountain Overview
Rock Climbing Photo: Phil Gleason -Happy Monkeys '09
Phil Gleason -Happy Monkeys '09
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking east to Burge Mtn in the distance from Fan...
Looking east to Burge Mtn in the distance from Fan...

Comments on Burge Mountain (Tonasket) Add Comment
Show which comments
By applewood
From: Tonasket, WA
Jun 16, 2013
Burge Mtn is about 13 and a half miles up from the Tonasket (from Hwy 97) along the Havillah Rd. Turn right onto the gravel surfaced North Siwash Creek Rd after 12 miles on the Havillah Rd., and follow for 1.5 miles (don't turn left at the first road marked "Burge Mtn Rd"). Park along the West side of the road (when the cliffs are visible on the left) and cross the fence at the pass-through stile to approach the cliffs (Forest Service land).

The Lower Western Front is the first cliff visible from the road (about a 5 minute approach hike). The other crags are further along the trail to the East. Elevation at the parking area is 3300' and at base of the cliffs ranges between 3350' and 3650'. The rock is gneiss, and while great when cleaned, it can be brittle and/or loose in some areas, with lots of loose debris on surrounding ledges (so helmets are recommended). One remarkable thing about Burge is the lack of rattle snakes...

Generally the prevailing ethic at Burge is modern and less old school than at any other crag in the North Okanogan - some climbs are more traditional with gear expected to be used if there is a good placement, but there are also many more gym-like routes with lots of bolts placed even where gear would do, so either way, most routes can be climbed safely despite the sometimes questionable rock.

All the sub-crags at Burge have at least a good route or two worth doing, but not all have easy access. For a comparison - especially if you're traveling with small children;

EASY (short approach with relatively flat bases) - The Green Wall, Lower Western Front, The Jungle Gym.

MODERATE (boulder field approach, mostly flat bases) - Little Pine Rock, The Main Wall, Thailand Training Wall, Middle Earth, Raptor Wall.

DIFFICULT (long approach and/or some scrambling required to sometimes uneven bases) - Upper Western Front, The Ledge, North Canyon and Upper SE, S & SW Faces.

Note to all climbers even though this is a somewhat remote crag, please do your best to minimize your impact and presence; pack it in/pack it out, and leave no trace. Potential route developers, please minimize your impact and ideally make any bolts or top anchors camouflaged, use stainless steel hardware as much as possible, and don't mix your metals.... Any comments and input on existing or new routes is much appreciated.
By geomark
From: Okanogan, WA
Sep 9, 2013
Gneiss area. Short approach on grass until you get to the wall. Faces nearly south. Very well bolted. Needs to be climbed more to clean it up. Well worth the trip if in the area. Look for a new pass-trough in the fence and follow the trail. Good FUN!
By applewood
From: Tonasket, WA
May 12, 2016
Warning be careful about the condition of the fixed ropes at Burge.

There are three sections of fixed rope at the far right end of Burge - used for accessing the upper wall, especially The Ledge routes which although having the longest approach (about 30 minute hike) also have 5 bolted routes in the 5.5 to 5.4 range and so offer the best easy climbs at Burge, with great exposure and views. My warning is be sure to check these rope's condition before trusting them. They are getting old, and were probably intended to help when descending in the dark or rain, but are also useful for pulling up on on the approach.

Today I was starting up the 2nd section of rope (which is the longest and newest of the three) and after a few pulls up, the rope broke and sent me falling back to the ledge below. Fortunately the fall was only about 5+' and I wasn't hurt, but when I got to the spot that broke (about 15' up) I could see that the cut was clean like it had been made with a knife (cut through the core with a bit of the sheath left to break when loaded). I can't be sure of this, but I was just there less than 3 weeks ago and this section was perfectly fine then. Also there was no sign of rodent gnawing (no fibers on the rock) and no sign of abrasion on the smooth section of face there. SO… it makes me think someone was vandalizing the fixed line, and fortunately I am heavy and the rope broke quickly, if it had broken higher up the accident could have been very serious.
By Jon Nelson
Administrator
May 22, 2016
That is a scary tale about the fixed rope. To think that someone could sabotage access like that makes me shudder. Or, even if it wasn't sabotage, then it still makes me worry about fixed lines. I'm glad though that you were OK.

I wonder about the best way to test a fixed line, particularly one partly out of view. Before starting on it, should one try to jump on it, or somehow generate a greater-than-bodyweight force? Or might that weaken a line, making it even more likely to break when you need it?
By applewood
From: Tonasket, WA
May 25, 2016
I don't know Jon. Maybe it is best just to not use them at all when climbing up v. using them on a descent when the condition of the anchor and line can be checked. At least they should be treated as suspect until one person has checked them out…
By Jon Nelson
Administrator
May 25, 2016
Yes, the safest may be to not use the fixed lines.

I have also seen intermediate anchor points put on fixed lines. If this is done right, then one can see the entire length that will be supporting them. If possible, this is the way to go.

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