Mountain Project: Climbing Grand Junction

Grand Junction's only bona fide sport crag!! Just up the trail from the mica mine in Bangs Canyon lies a VERY steep little crag with about 8 or 9 routes. These routes are HARD. There is one 11a warm-up (locals have been known to call it 10d...) but everything else is 12a-13c. (EDIT: There is also a 10b that went up recently.)

At first glance the rocks seems like total choss, but the two routes I've done so far were both great. This is a superb training crag due to the steepness and technical nature of the climbing. Best of all, this crag sits in a BEAUTIFUL canyon complete with waterfall and afternoon shade.

Getting There

To reach from Grand Jct., turn off Broadway (CO highway 340) onto Rim Rock Drive (the way to the CNM) and go 1 block, then turn left on to D Road, which soon turns into Rosevale Rd. and leads to CS Road (aka Little Park Road). Follow CS Road for approximately 5 miles (8km) to the turnoff to Rough and Bangs Canyons at the first left after the crest of the hill. This is also the trailhead to the Tabeguache Trail. Park at the gravel parking area and hike 1/4 mile (0.4 km) southwest on a rough road to a small canyon. Turn right (Left is Rough Canyon) and walk for 20-30 minutes. Soon you will reach an old mica mine (giant white cave). From there, it's just another 50 meters on the right.

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Bangs Canyon:

Blackhole V7 Boulder, 15 feet

Baby Bang 5.10b/c Sport, 1 pitch, 50 feet

Choss Master 5.11a Sport, 1 pitch, 50 feet

Big Fat Weiners 5.12a Sport, 1 pitch, 50 feet

Bang and Blame 5.12c Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet

Liquid Charcoal 5.12c/d Sport, 1 pitch, 50 feet

Big Bang 5.13c Sport, 65 feet

Project 5.13c/d Sport, 1 pitch, 55 feet

Featured Route For Bangs Canyon

Wormhole V5-6 CO : Grand Junction : Bangs Canyon

This route is marked purple in the picture.Sit start low in the cave, right next to a little, black boulder, on a flake that looks unstable but is tough as iron. (I've been starting with my right hand on the flake and my left on a sloper right next to the hold.)Pull up and lock off hard with your right hand and move out to an awesome incut crimp, bump up and left to a better crimp. Throw a drop knee and shoot up into the crack above, a very low percentage move. Continue to follow the the crack/s...[more] Browse More Classics in CO

Comments on Bangs Canyon

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By CURT LOVE
Jul 7, 2009

unknown 10 b
baby bang

By Hoez
From: Uganda
Mar 8, 2010

I've donated about 6 quickdraws to this area.

Every single one has now been cleaned/stolen and is in the possession of someone other than the original owner....

I've put more up and they are a DONATION to this crag. Leave them alone - they're not yours! Have some respect and courtesy for other climbers trying to enjoy the area.

The routes here are hard and its nice to have an escape draw to bail on when your too pumped to get to the chains. It's also very convenient not to have to leave one of your new expensive quickdraws behind as well....

Seriously... pull your head out of your ass.

By Jesse Zacher
Administrator
From: Grand Junction, Co
Mar 11, 2010

I had some equipment from this area stolen as well. I would recommend tightened screw links on the bolt side of quick draws.

By NEH
Jun 27, 2010

I wish had read your posts before I left my draws on Bang and Blame. I went back for the send this weekend and someone had taken all of my draws. They had even taken the new carabiners off the anchor of Baby Bang.

This saddens me to know that someone here locally has such little respect for people in his/her community that he/she feels entitled to steal from them. All I can say is this F***** is accumulating some seriously bad karma!

By Rschap
From: Grand Junction, CO
Jul 3, 2010

NEH: the kid that took your draws is new to outside climbing and didn't know any better. He felt really bad when we told him he shouldn�t have taken them. I had him drop them off at the gym and you can pick them up any time. He didn�t take the biners off of Baby Bang.

On a side note: The BLM has asked that we not leave draws hanging in this area and mentioned how easy it was to rap in and hang draws then rap in to take them back down after. Just passing the word.

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Bangs Canyon

Description

Getting There

The Classics