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Routes in Bang's Canyon

Baby Bang S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Bang and Blame S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Big Bang S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Big Fat Weiners S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Blackhole V7 7A+
Choss Master S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Liquid Charcoal S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Project S 5.13c/d 8b 31 X 31 E8 7a
Proper Grammar V6+ 7A
Pumping Jesus S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
She Bangs S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Unknown (.13-) S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Wormhole V5-6 6C+
Type: Sport, 65 ft
FA: Ed Strang
Page Views: 924 total, 7/month
Shared By: Hoez on Apr 30, 2007
Admins: Jesse Zacher, Jared LaVacque, Bradley Mark Edwards, Nick Reecy, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

Start the same as Bang and Blame - pulling up onto some very solid granite slopers. Bouldery through this section, up to the second bolt. The move after the second bolt is technical and wears you down. But stick it, and its a jug haul up to the 4th bolt, where you have a very good rest - time to recover from the lower bouldery section... traverse right and into the first crux

after sometime working through the crux section (the 5th, 6th, and half way to the 7th bolt) found enough solid holds that didnt scare me while holding on. At first i was skeptical about the legitimacy of this line but after working the crux section (and scouring the rockface for solid holds that didnt just break sending me rocketing 10 feet backwards off the wall) find that it holds true. In all actuality, its a very good line.

More traffic is needed though - and when the line has been beaten down enough to the point that only the good solid holds remain - it will be a grade level harder possibly. (key word - possibly)

I will say I took a 25 ft.er pulling slack to clip the long reach to the 6th bolt (which I immediately fixed, having installed a longer draw to help with this problem). If I had to say there is a single crux move - it would be going from an undercling to horrible "knobs" and sloping quarter pad crimps, with an excruciating lock off/cross through move to a "thank jesus" (sidepull jug) hold. My suggestion is that when your in the undercling - exert a little extra energy to pull up and clip that long draw before working the next sequence. You tube worthy falls if you don't - believe that.

Either way - very technical. Every hold you grab requires you to reset your feet, meaning you spend a longer time on those shitty holds - pumping yourself out - trying your hardest to keep you feet on, because if they peel your taking a fall.

(more on the sexond crux to come)

Location

Big Bang splits off right from Bang and Blame at the forth bolt, moves around an arete, and tackles a steep headwall. Nasty.

Protection

9 bolts (2 are fixed)

Photos

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