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Bruce Carson Memorial Route
5.10 YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British
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Routes in The Mace
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Blood,Sweat, and Fears T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R |
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Bruce Carson Memorial Route T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Little Big Man T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Original Route T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Rappel Route TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Real Rappel Route T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Webster/ Becker Variation T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Wind, Sand, and Stars T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A2+ R |
| Type: | Trad, 3 pitches, Grade II |
| GPS: | 34.81836, -111.7913 |
| FA: | Tim Coats, Bobbi Bensman 1983 |
| Page Views: | 2,042 total · 11/month |
| Shared By: | Larry Coats on Sep 30, 2010 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen |
Description
The Bruce Carson Memorial Route was named in honor of the clean-climbing legend who was the first to attempt the line in 1973. Carson died in the Indian Himalaya after falling through a cornice on September 4, 1975, at only 24 years of age. The route climbs the back side of the same crack system that forms the Original Route, and joins that route on its 4th pitch.
Pitch 1: Traverse the Fort Apache limestone from the notch. A tricky step across a missing portion of the ledge (5.9) leads the belay at the base of the corner.
Pitch 2: Climb the left-facing corner, passing a smooth bulge that was Carson’s high point in the 70’s (5.10). Continue above to a belay in a recess.
Pitch 3: Follow wide cracks and chimneys (5.9) to join the 4th pitch chimney of the Original Route. Follow that route to the summit of the second tower.
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