Type: Trad, 400 ft, 5 pitches, Grade III
FA: Bob Kamps, Dave Rearick, TM Herbert, 1957
Page Views: 41,418 total · 234/month
Shared By: Josh Janes on Jan 20, 2006
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


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Description

The Mace is a classic Sedona route, and one of the "must do" lines in the area. If you're used to Moab area towers, this is a bit of a disappointment in terms of rock quality, but the adventure itself is wonderful.

Approach from a small trailhead off of Back O' Beyond Road in Sedona. The hike is 15-20 minutes at a leisurely pace.

P1: Climb up chimney (or the runout face to the right) to a crack through limestone band. Pull a small roof to gain a big alcove with eyebolt belay. 5.7.

P2: Head up a handcrack in the back corner of alcove, into a chimney, breaking left at top and continuing up an offwidth crack in the corner. A final corner leads to an eyebolt belay on top of a small pillar. 5.9.

P3: Clip a bolt off the left side of the pillar and perform an airy traverse left to gain a crack system. Climb this to reach a small triangular belay ledge with another eyebolt belay.

P4: Pass through a slot to the west, then move right and climb a crack system to an alcove about halfway up. From here, chimney and offwidth (crux) past a bolt. This leads to the summit of the lower tower and an eyebolt belay.

P5: Lean across to the higher tower, clip a bolt, and traverse right and climb up to gain an easier slab to the top. Belay off a strange anchor bolted to the summit.

Descent: Rappel to lower summit (or do the jump... bad idea). Double rope rap from here to a ledge, then another double rope rap to the saddle behind the tower.

Protection

Minimum rack:
.75 Camalot
1 Camalot
2 Camalot
3 Camalot
4 Camalot
Draws, slings, 2 ropes

Wide gear optional. A #3 Big Bro will protect the last moves on the second pitch with a little fiddling to get it set. And it doesn't jam you in the ribs while leading like one of the largest cams.

Photos