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Amusement Park

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bumper Cars S 
Cotton Candy TR 
Demon Drop S 
Haunted House S 
Log Flume S 
Power Tower S 
Roller Coaster S 
Tea Cups S 
Tilt-A-Whirl TR 

Amusement Park 


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Location: 36.03789, -114.65635 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 1,821
Administrators: Larry DeAngelo, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: D Young on Jan 7, 2014
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BETA PHOTO: 1. Power Tower 4 b's
2. Bumper Cars 4 b's
3. Demon...

Description 

Beginner sport route crag which faces north. It is shaded in the afternoon, generally around 1:00 pm. This crag is cold in the winter but nice in the warmer months. The Amusement Park is directly below and faces the Panty Wall.

If you are a beginner, you will most likely have a fun day at the Amusement Park. If you are not a beginner, you might be slightly bored.

There are 4 hook anchors shared between the 9 climbing lines. Just drop your rope into the hooks and top rope/lower off dirctly from the hooks. Each of the first three anchors from left to right are shared with 2 routes each. The fourth (farthest right) anchor has 3 climbing lines shared.

All routes are initially graded 5.7, but some might be 5.6 or 5.8. Please fill in what you think the grades are for each. Thanks and have fun!


Getting There 

Approach as per Panty Wall but before taking the left at the top of the long ramp, look down and right for a short white ramp that leads into the gully below Panty Wall and directly to Amusement Park. 15 mins.


9 Total Routes


['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',0],['2 Stars',9],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',9],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',0],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Amusement Park:
Log Flume   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Sport, 35'   
Tea Cups   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Sport, 35'   
Haunted House   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Sport, 35'   
Browse More Classics in Amusement Park

Featured Route For Amusement Park

Tilt-A-Whirl 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b  NV : Red Rock : ... : Amusement Park
Top rope climbing line on the right side of the wall. Use slab to start or traverse in from the left on the ledge above the slab....[more]   Browse More Classics in NV

Comments on Amusement Park Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jun 6, 2014
By Sandy Crimp
Jan 12, 2014

Looks like a great addition of moderates.

By Mostafa
From: Las Vegas, NV
Jan 18, 2014

Great addition to bypass crowds at hamlet and panty wall. The grades seem about right although the three bolted routes on the right may feel harder because of the slab starts. Don't forget your gear for tea-cups if your not comfortable on 5.7 potential decking terrain or a new leader. This wall has been cleaned up really well not much loose stuff on it.

By Thomas Beck
From: Las Vegas, Nevada
Jan 30, 2014

I'd generally agree with Mostafa. Though I broke a hold off a couple days ago, it makes the move on that route only very slightly harder. I think 3rd line from the left. Overall rock quality seems about same as Hamlet. Easy to set top ropes on if you are not comfortable leading

The rightmost routes have a more difficult slabby start and lichen still abounds. I was surprised to see evidence of what looks like chipping on one of the right-side routes...????

Placements look OK. Thanks for using Mussy Hooks. I wish 1/2" bolts had been used for belay anchors. If this area begins to get the attention it deserves the anchor placements could get loose.

By Thomas Beck
From: Las Vegas, Nevada
Jan 30, 2014

Guilty!....So Guilty! <br />
Guilty!....So Guilty!



You are so busted whoever left this. LOL.....:o)

By dnoB ekiM
Feb 16, 2014

Good addition. Decent routes, well equipped and well camo'd, surprisingly clean. A good "first day outside" beginners crag.

#8 BD stopper for Demon Drop and .5 BD Camelot for Tilt A Whirl. You can also use that .5 Camelot on the top of Roller Coaster. 5.7 felt about right for most. Roller Coaster was definitely harder (and sandy) at the bottom. REALLY clean routes to be this new.

By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
Mar 15, 2014

An absolute gem of a cliff. While the routes are short, all of them are interesting and none are ladders. Well worth a couple of hours to clear the entire cliff! Thanks for the addition, Dan!

By James J DAmbrosia
From: Las Vegas NV
Apr 28, 2014

So missy hooks made in China. Since when does china rate anything

By dnoB ekiM
Apr 29, 2014

You know most of your climbing gear is made in China too....right?
Those mussys could be wayyyyy under there intended rating and still be wayyyy stronger than needed for the forces they will see from lowering/rapping.

Those mussys are fine and a great option for this cliff.

Of course, you could always chip in and replace them with some finely made Draco lower-offs from Fixe. I'm sure Dan would not mind.

www.fixehardware.com/shop/anchors/fixe-ps-3/8-sport-anchor/

By James J DAmbrosia
From: Las Vegas NV
May 3, 2014

i dont know where your buying your gear from but nothing i own is made in china as they dont have any standards governing their products hence the cheap price.The part that scares me is they are outside in the elements.
as for the hooks here your probally right but my life is a little more important than saving a couple bucks which i do not know dan but yes i would have chipped in.
www.fda.gov/forconsumer

By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
May 3, 2014

James- unless you're a rare climber indeed, I'd say it's highly likely you own climbing gear made in China. There are standards, of course, as they cannot sell kit that isn't certified.

In particular, mussys are made of steel with a proven track record in the desert. If they weren't a good option, those of us who develop wouldn't use them. If you're that scared of them, use your own kit on the bolts and then walk off.

By dnoB ekiM
May 4, 2014

Black Diamond Equipment Asia located in Zhuhai, China produces many of the company’s products.

en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Black_Diamond_Equipment

Also true for many other manufacturer's

By James J DAmbrosia
From: Las Vegas NV
May 5, 2014

Boys I'm not trying to get into a pissing match (ha). For those that know me
John we know the same people and I know your work (setting and taking care of routes out there)
Being a rigger here in town and having steel knowledge I'm just surprised to see made in China.Now that being said BD has factory's in China, their equipment is made there but under their guidelines BD has strict guidelines that's why we all (most) but BD. I just found it funny to see a hook (first one) mind you that had made in China on it. If I come across a shackle with made in China it goes right in the garbage. Worried no I still clipped in and lowered off.

By James J DAmbrosia
From: Las Vegas NV
May 5, 2014

And just to add. I will bring newbies here also my 6 yr old and will use the hooks to lower. I love this wall for getting people aquatinted to climbing. Glad someone out there is thinking about beginner climbers

By dnoB ekiM
May 5, 2014

James,

No peeing match intended. Sorry if it sounded that way (tone is a hard thing to communicate or hear on the interwebs).

I was just defending Dan's work here. I agree it is a nice beginner crag, and he used good gear to equip it. (Ok, I am fan of stainless, but you can't convince most people that it matters in the desert. So, I get it.) After playing around with a variety of anchor options, I now prefer mussy's in most single pitch scenarios. When I get time to revisit some of my older routes, I will be re-equipping them with mussys.

Every mussy I have found is made in China (or is not labeled...so, likely made in China). They all seem more than adequate for a 2-point lowering anchor. They have the advantage of being clippable for easy/safe/fast "cleaning" and they are easily replaced.

I get scared easily...but I can't imagine 2 mussys (lacking obvious flaws) failing in a lowering scenario.

By James J DAmbrosia
From: Las Vegas NV
May 7, 2014

Dnob
The same to you. That's why I hate reading. Can't hear my voice.
I like what you just said. Mussy is great. Not making fun of dan(who I don't know)
I have a good shall we say. Example for you. About china made
Would you rap off a quick link you bought from Home Depot? They do have a rating on them
My answer is hell no. I'll go to silver state wire and rope and buy American made and a few dollars more rated ones. Matter of fact. France makes good ones too.
Am I being anal. .??? I guess like john mentioned. They are good enough. Plus (most important)
There are enough of us to keep and eye on this stuff to make sure it stays safe. I am capt safe. Sometimes too safe.
But. That being said. Keep an eye on and I will say. Don't trust (especially your life) to anything that has a "made in China" on it
Thank you. I have spoken. (Said smart ass ly).

By D Young
From: Las Vegas, Nevada
Jun 2, 2014

Working Load Limits (WLL) is the load that a piece of equipment can safely utilize to lift, suspend, or lower a mass without fear of breaking. WLL is the maximum working load designed by the manufacturer. This load represents a force that is much less than that required to make the equipment fail.

Working Load Limits (WLL) for the hardware used:
Chain: 2,650 lbs X 2 = 5,300 lbs
Quick link: 1,540 lbs X 2 = 3,080 lbs
Hooks: 2,500 lbs X 2 = 5,000 lbs

A quick search for top rope loads on an anchor as tested by Rock & Ice:
The Fall Scenario
To determine how a lazy belay affects the loads on an anchor, we staged two series of test falls and measured the maximum impact forces. In the first series, a 200-pound climber fell near the anchors of a taut pulley-style toprope. In the second series, using the same pulley-style setup, the same climber fell with four feet of slack in the rope—a common scenario if the belayer’s attention has lapsed for a moment. For consistency, both tests were performed with 35.5 feet of rope between the climber and the belayer, and the belay was virtually static. (We used a belay device clipped directly to a belay bolt—certainly not a recommended use of the device nor a good belay style because it doesn’t allow for dynamic load absorption, but one that allowed us to remove most of the variables from the belay setup.)

The Results
First Series: a standard pulley-style toprope fall with virtually no slack in the rope. The details: 200-pound climber, static belay, 35.5 feet of rope in the system. Forces were measured at the toprope anchor.
Fall 1: 800 pounds load on the anchor.
Fall 2: 750 pounds load.
Fall 3: 700 pounds load.
Second Series (the lazy belay): same details as the first series, but a pulley-style toprope fall with four feet of slack.
Fall 1: 1,300 pounds load on the anchor.
Fall 2: 1,550 pounds load.
Fall 3: 1,500 pounds load.

Clearly the hardware used far exceeds the maximum forces possible.

Dan

By kmunderground
From: Custer, SD
Jun 2, 2014

Went here today hoping to find some shade. Although this wall does face north, it was in full sun the entire time we were there (9:30 to 12:30) on June 1. It would probably go into the shade mid-afternoon. Still managed to hit 7 of the lines before our shoes melted onto our feet. Thanks, Dan for putting these routes up. It is a good area for beginners.

Kelly

By Zappatista
Jun 3, 2014

Dan, relax. You're not using stainless anyway, all that Chinese junk just ices the fringe cause yer so damn frosty....

Ball busting, sir. When our mutual friend gets back in town we gotta get out and check out some new lines. Wu-Tang Mussies ain't nuttin ta fuck wit!

By John Hegyes
From: Las Vegas, NV
Jun 4, 2014

The problem with Home Depot grade “made in China” hardware is the lack of a stamp from a reputable manufacturer. Equipment stamped with Black Diamond, Maillon Rapide, Petzl, etc indicates that those companies stand behind their gear with elaborate and well known testing procedures. Because they are susceptible to lawsuits, they perform the due diligence required to bring life safety equipment to market. They publish working load limits and, just as importantly, design factors. The typical hook or link from Home Depot has no manufacturer stamp - just the “made in China” mark. When no company is at risk of a lawsuit, the faceless equipment manufacturer has nothing at stake to incentivize quality control. By not publishing design factors, the working load limit stamp cannot be interpreted correctly. The fact is that users of rigging supplies from the local hardware store are clearly instructed that this equipment is “not for overhead lifting”. Anyone arguing that it is safe to use a “made in China” hook that lacks a mark from a reputable manufacturer does not know what he is talking about.

By dnoB ekiM
Jun 5, 2014

John,

I generally agree with your commentary. I am a big proponent of high quality fixed gear. Stainless and good brands (Powers, Hilti, Fixe). For lowering mussys, given the general overkill beefiness and redundancy of the equipment for the given application (not to mention the lack of permanency)...I tend to disagree that they are inadequate.

However, everyone should make their own risk management decisions. For me, despite being a chicken on such things...I feel totally safe lowering off of mussys (which are all "generic"). Most of the mussys I install are branded by Dayton...but they are still from China.

By D Young
From: Las Vegas, Nevada
Jun 6, 2014

Anyone arguing that it is unsafe to use a “made in China” hook bc it lacks a mark from a reputable manufacturer does not know what he is talking about.

Just busting your balls John ;-) I don't care if you trust them or don't trust them. If there is someone out there that wants to buy their preferred anchors for me to install I'm all for it. Paypal me at djyoung1110@yahoo.com.