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The Mezzanines

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The Mezzanines Rock Climbing 


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Location: 41.26348, -111.93456 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 2,017
Administrators: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Tristan Higbee on Jun 28, 2016
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BETA PHOTO: Descent location beta for the northern/gully desce...

Description 

The Mezzanines are a series of large, obvious, broken quartzite cliffs east of northern Ogden (not North Ogden, which is a different city) on the west side of Lewis Peak. They are north of Ogden Canyon and south of Jumpoff Canyon.

There has historically been very little recorded about the routes here, even though they are the longest routes in Ogden and among the longest in the Wasatch. Only three lines are listed in the David G. Robb guidebook for Ogden (and basically zero information or beta is given, and what is given is wrong) even though "dozens" have been climbed. All of the climbs here are traditional, and there are no fixed anchors. Expect lots of ledges, a fair amount of broken and loose rock, and a lot of adventure.

The Mezzanines routes generally face west or southwest and get a lot of sun.

Descent Option 1: The Canyon



Descent beta photo

The Robb guide lists two possible descents, one being down a steep gully near the north end of the Mezzanines and the other being down an unnamed canyon at the south end. (See The Mezzanines overview photo for relative location.)

For the canyon descent, traverse right (south) along the top of the cliffs until you can drop down into a brushy gully. This gully turns into a canyon, and the canyon eventually deposits you back on the Bonneville Shoreline Trail, which you follow back to the trailhead. Going down the canyon requires minor down-scrambling, bushwhacking, and getting past one large dropoff. This dropoff could be rappelled by using a horn as an anchor (use an equivocation hitch), but it can easily be bypassed on the skier's left via ledge systems and 4th class downclimbing. See the descent beta photo for an overview.

This descent is long and very unpleasant and took us about 1 hour 50 minutes from the top of Timex. It is a bigger, longer, much more unpleasant version of the Jumpoff Canyon descent. I don't recommend this descent. Option 2, the gully, is faster, easier, and less of an ordeal. That said, it is the faster and preferred descent option for any routes south of the Amphitheater.

Descent Option 2: The Gully



Descent beta photo

This is the better descent option. (See The Mezzanines overview photo for relative location.)

The descent gully option is at the north end of The Mezzanines and starts just north of the top of The Nose. From the top of the routes head north until you are at the top of a steep gully. You should be able to see a large pine tree near the bottom of the gully. Though the gully is steep, the going is relatively easy (some 3rd and 4th class downclimbing, but nothing too hard, scary, or exposed) and straightforward. Before you get to the pine tree, traverse right (north) into a second, larger gully system. Follow this gully all the way down until you're out of the cliffs. You may have to downclimb through a cliff band or two, but rappelling shouldn't be necessary. From the bottom of the gully, you can either follow the bottom of the dry wash/small canyon back down until it intersects with the Bonneville Shoreline Trail and the gravel canal road (not recommended because of cliffs in the draingage), or you can descend down the mountainside to the left or right of the drainage. Either way, you'll ultimately end up at the Bonneville Shoreline Trail and then the canal road. Follow either the trail or the road back to where you parked.

Note that at the pine tree, you can also continue down skier's left a bit and basically end up on the approach trail/path. It requires a bit of downclimbing or maybe a short rappel, but it's a little quicker then cutting back right and allows you to stay up out of the drainage.

Getting There 

Because the area is so broad, there are a few different trailheads, and the best depends on which route you plan on doing. Approach beta will be given on the page for each individual route.

Climbing Season

For the Ogden area.

Weather station 1.2 miles from here

11 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',0],['2 Stars',3],['1 Star',8],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',3],['5.7',3],['5.8',1],['5.9',2],['5.10',1],['5.11',1],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]


Featured Route For The Mezzanines
Rock Climbing Photo: Approach beta

The Nose 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b  Utah : Wasatch Range : ... : The Mezzanines
This route follows the obvious proud, narrow prow on the left side of the main area of The Mezzanines. The route is shorter, more consistent, and generally on better rock than Timex.The pitches as done below were climbed with a 70-meter rope, but the route can be done with a rope of any length. The Ogden guidebook gives the route a 5.6 rating. While all of the 5.7 cruxes could be bypassed to keep the grade at 5.6, the 5.7 parts are the best parts of the climb. The beta below is for one possible ...[more]   Browse More Classics in Utah

Photos of The Mezzanines Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Overview of The Mezzanines from Ogden (from Ben Lo...
BETA PHOTO: Overview of The Mezzanines from Ogden (from Ben Lo...
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking down the 3rd and 5th class descent gullies...
BETA PHOTO: Looking down the 3rd and 5th class descent gullies...
Rock Climbing Photo: Descent overview for the South Buttress of the Mez...
BETA PHOTO: Descent overview for the South Buttress of the Mez...
Rock Climbing Photo: Overview of the routes and descent options on the ...
BETA PHOTO: Overview of the routes and descent options on the ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Overview of the South Buttress of the Mezzanines, ...
BETA PHOTO: Overview of the South Buttress of the Mezzanines, ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Descent beta photo (for the southern/canyon descen...
BETA PHOTO: Descent beta photo (for the southern/canyon descen...

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