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Routes in The Mezzanines

Avoiding the Issue T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c
Bloody Show T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Deathblock Dihedral T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Fits and Starts T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Nickel and Dimed T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Nose, The T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Penny Wise, Dollar Foolish T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Pterodactyl T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
Roof Routes T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Semi-Ridge T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Timex T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, 1250 ft, 8 pitches, Grade III
FA: Mikel Vause and Chris Bonington
Page Views: 365 total, 22/month
Shared By: Tristan Higbee on Jun 28, 2016
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Description

This is a long, moderate, inconsistent, and adventurous route up a buttress left of The Amphitheater and right of The Nose.

There's a lot of rock up here, and the beta below is for just one possible option. Take whatever line looks best to you.

Pitch 1 - 5.5, 40 m
Start just left of a lone juniper tree and climb up the tan rock buttress. The steeper section toward the start of the pitch is 5.5/5.6ish, and the rest is easier. Belay from a tree (above the one that you can see part of from the base).

Pitch 2 - 5.2, 60 m
Climb up the solid, gray, crimpy face to the large, sloping dirt ledge with tufts of plants on it. Belay halfway up the sloping ledge at some cracks on the far left side/corner of the ledge.

Pitch 3 – 5.7, 55 m
Head up the rest of the dirt ledge and gingerly climb up shattered, broken blocks to a large ledge system.

Pitch 4 – 5.4, 30 m
Climb the very short red wall above the belay and set up the next belay from one of the trees or large boulders on top of the cliff band.

Pitch 5 – 5.5/5.6, 50 m
Climb up the nice-looking red buttress/rib above the belay. The buttress has an obvious fist crack splitting a small roof near the top. Either climb the crack or skirt around it on good holds to the left.

Move the belay ~75 feet up and to the right to the base of a jagged hand crack.

Pitch 6 – 5.7, 65 m
The crux pitch and the best pitch on the route. Climb up the fun jagged hand crack and then into a left-facing corner with a roof near the top. Keep going and belay to the right near the crest of the ridge/buttress.

Pitch 7 – 5.6, 40 m
Climb up the ridge toward a small roof with a large crack below it. Climb on steep rock left of the roof on great holds.

Pitch 8 – Easy 5th, 40 m
Continue up over 4th class boulders and the occasional steeper 5th class step.

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See the descent beta on the main page for The Mezzanines.

Location

Park at the Douglas St. trailhead. (There's a good view of the entire route from the sign at the trailhead.) Hike up the main trail that starts at the south end of the cul-de-sac. Follow the trail across the canal road and then up to a sign trail intersection. Follow the Bonneville Shoreline Trail north from here and note the talus slope coming down from near the base of the route. This is the talus slope you're going to eventually be heading up to the base of the route. When you get to roughly below the slope, you'll see a large grayish-brown blob of a rock a few hundred feet above where you are on the trail. Leave the trail here and make your way left of the blob rock and up to the talus slope. Hike up the slope to a dark-colored cliff with a dike running through it. Skirt around this cliff on the left and then make your way up to the top of the cliff by moving back right. Timex starts here on the cream-colored buttress/apron. There is a prominent juniper tree just right of the start of the route.

Approach time is 45 minutes to 1 hour.

Protection

Micro cams, 1.5 set of cams to #3, set of nuts, lots of slings
William Kramer
Kemmerer, WY
William Kramer   Kemmerer, WY
The rattlesnake made the trip for me, closest I've ever been to a live one. Way cool. Pretty sure I heard one around pitch 4 or 5 as I belayed as well. But yeah, the descent sucked, the gully to the north of the Nose is 10 times better. Aug 19, 2016
Tristan Higbee
Ogden, UT
 
Tristan Higbee   Ogden, UT
 
The only beta that the guidebook has for this route is that it's 3 to 4 pitches long. There's no way. I figured it would be 500–600 feet long before climbing it, but it was surprisingly long. Straight line vertical gain from the bottom of the route to the top is about 1,000 feet according to Google Earth. If you add up the pitch lengths, it's 380 meters or about 1,250 feet. That must make it (and the other routes here) in the top 10 longest routes in the Wasatch.

This climb was a lot of fun. The actual climbing on most of the pitches isn't that great, but the experience overall is great if you're into this kind of climbing (i.e., long, obscure, moderate, kind of chossy trad).

I nearly stepped on a rattlesnake on the top, so keep an eye out.

It took us about 4 hrs 45 minutes from the bottom of the first pitch until we topped out. We climbed it in a 99-degree day, didn't take enough water (remember how I thought it was just 4 pitches and 600 feet long?), and had a really rough time on the descent. This climb bakes after late morning, and the descent is long, crappy, sunny, and hot. Take lots of water. Jun 28, 2016