Heading to squamish for 3 weeks in august. Need a crack shoe/ all arounder for the trip. I'm thinking lace up Katanas because I've worn them before and they fit super well, but I was also referred to the lace up anasazis. Ideas?
And I don't think I will throw down for the TC Pro's.....
I've climbed hand cracks in Katana Lace-Ups. They're fantastic all-around shoes for climbing hard, and they climb cracks great. They're not so downturned that the hurt. I would recommend them for Squamish.
brat .
·
Jun 13, 2013
·
Salt Lake City, UT
· Joined Nov 2007
· Points: 81
Yeah a lot of stuff in Squamish is lower angle. If 5.10 or under is your game, be prepared to stand on your feet a lot.
+1 Katana velcros. I loved those things in Squamish. Don't go too small.
theres really 2 types of crack climbs in squamish ... the sustained ones where you need to stick your feet into the crack
and those that have a lot of smeary facy/stem moves with the occasional toe/foot jam ...
the former tends to be thin hands to offwidth and usually tops out around the 5.10ish level ... on those uncomfortable shoes can be a biatch ...
ie ... hand jive 10a
the latter can be any level really, but cracks here tend to get more facy/smeary/stem the harder they get as they get thinner ... in those cases sporty shoes actually work best IMO ..
ie ... sentry box 12a ...
either way assuming your going to do the long stuff (the moderate and the hard things) ... you may want a somewhat comfortable pair of toes flat shoes for long cracks/slabs that are aggressive enough to get through the cruxes (like katana velcros) and are easy to take off at belays ...
and a second pair of fairly aggressive sporty like shoes with good edging/standing on crystals for those 11+/12- trad climbs ... and the sport routes
ive used all the shoes you mentioned in squamish and they all work just fine within their limitations ...
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