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Nov 17, 2011
Last Visit: Sep 23, 2014
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Gear > Climbing Gear Discussion
Reply: Cam Physics Explanation Please!
Oct 28, 2013 I think what's going on is that the 4x figure is just being misenterpreted. It's not that is wrong really, but applied in the wrong way. The reason why you would want to use th… View Message
Gear > Climbing Gear Discussion
Reply: Dyneema re-sling
Oct 28, 2013 Those mammut slings are sewn concentrically (one end inside the other) and are actually woven larger at one end to allow it. It might not even be feasible to get full strength… View Message
Gear > Climbing Gear Discussion
Reply: Cam Physics Explanation Please!
Oct 28, 2013 If you do a free body diagram of the flake, you'll see what I mean. There's 2x at the cam, and the reacting force at the attachment of the flake. An analogous situation is t… View Message
Gear > Climbing Gear Discussion
Reply: Cam Physics Explanation Please!
Oct 28, 2013 In this case, the outward force does not add the way you may expect. It may be 2x the outward force on each side of the cam, but that means the force outward on the flake is 2x… View Message
Gear > Climbing Gear Discussion
Reply: What is the safest climbing helmet?
Oct 27, 2013 I've long thought that it would be nice if the UIAA hemet standard were a graduated scale, like car crash ratings are. Unfortunately, it's a pass/fail system, which means there… View Message
Gear > Climbing Gear Discussion
Reply: Cam Physics Explanation Please!
Oct 26, 2013 The whole number is a result of camming angle. I suppose it could be a coincidence, or maybe the common 14 degree angle was chosen from a rounded off force multiplication. Eith… View Message

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