Continue with onX Maps
Sign in with Facebook
Original Name
Mountain Project has chosen not to publish the original name of this route: "Happiness In Slavery".
You can find more information about our naming policy here. We will gladly work with first ascensionists to change route names, or Local Climbing Organizations to change area names.
Suggested Page Improvements to [Redacted]
Description Suggestion
This is another route similar to the others up there and at a similar grade. This particular line starts as for the shared start of [[Crack Tack]]105748334 or [[Of Human Bondage]]107330676. The latter of these is a book by W. Somerset Maugham and the inspiration for the name of this climb, which is also a NIN song dealing in similar themes and philosophical currency from another angle. According to Maugham, reflecting on his life as a pattern of threads in design: "...the simplest pattern, that in which a man was born, worked, married, had children, and died, was likewise the most perfect."
Climb up and onto good edges and features just right of the first bolt of [[Crack Tack]]105748334. A couple of large stoppers and a hand-sized cam can go behind a right-facing crack/flake here just before the bolt on [[Crack Tack]]105748334. You can skip the bolt as it is slightly further left (and you are going right), and it will create slightly more drag. The gear is good anyway.
Continue up and slightly right on positive crimps and reasonably good feet. You'll pass by the first of 2 bolts of '[[Of Human Bondage]]107330676' just to the left climbing perhaps as you might as for that route. You can clip this bolt as you'll just left of it by a meter as you reach its height, but be sure to put on a long sling if you do. If you have clipped it, it may cause some minor drag. At this point, at the height of the bolt, having clipped it (or not), you head up and left on relatively easier moves to a point that intercepts the bottom of 2 parallel seams that run up and right towards the top of the wall. Just before reaching them, I found a small/medium stopper and small cam placement. These are more directly above the previous gear placements and will make a zig-zag of the rope if you clipped the bolt on '[[Bondage]].' Place this gear, regardless, as it will be the gear that keeps you off the deck in a fall. Head up and to the rightmost of the two parallel, leaning seams that go to the top of the wall. They offer no gear at first, but I cleaned some rock flakes and dirt out of a spot a few meters up these and got in a grey or purple (I chose the purple, but either would work) Mastercam. I presume a purple/black Alien would also work, but those are wider, and I am not sure. A ballnut might also fit and work as a back-up piece to the cam. You'll see the second bolt of '[[Of Human Bondage]]107330676' perhaps 3 meters to your right. Continue up the seam you are in to get up into the tiny, left-facing offset, and take that up to the ledge as for '[[Of Human Bondage]]107330676.' Place a few pieces of gear before traversing to the anchors to protect your second and the rope from a nasty swing.
Climb up and onto good edges and features just right of the first bolt of [[Crack Tack]]105748334. A couple of large stoppers and a hand-sized cam can go behind a right-facing crack/flake here just before the bolt on [[Crack Tack]]105748334. You can skip the bolt as it is slightly further left (and you are going right), and it will create slightly more drag. The gear is good anyway.
Continue up and slightly right on positive crimps and reasonably good feet. You'll pass by the first of 2 bolts of '[[Of Human Bondage]]107330676' just to the left climbing perhaps as you might as for that route. You can clip this bolt as you'll just left of it by a meter as you reach its height, but be sure to put on a long sling if you do. If you have clipped it, it may cause some minor drag. At this point, at the height of the bolt, having clipped it (or not), you head up and left on relatively easier moves to a point that intercepts the bottom of 2 parallel seams that run up and right towards the top of the wall. Just before reaching them, I found a small/medium stopper and small cam placement. These are more directly above the previous gear placements and will make a zig-zag of the rope if you clipped the bolt on '[[Bondage]].' Place this gear, regardless, as it will be the gear that keeps you off the deck in a fall. Head up and to the rightmost of the two parallel, leaning seams that go to the top of the wall. They offer no gear at first, but I cleaned some rock flakes and dirt out of a spot a few meters up these and got in a grey or purple (I chose the purple, but either would work) Mastercam. I presume a purple/black Alien would also work, but those are wider, and I am not sure. A ballnut might also fit and work as a back-up piece to the cam. You'll see the second bolt of '[[Of Human Bondage]]107330676' perhaps 3 meters to your right. Continue up the seam you are in to get up into the tiny, left-facing offset, and take that up to the ledge as for '[[Of Human Bondage]]107330676.' Place a few pieces of gear before traversing to the anchors to protect your second and the rope from a nasty swing.
