Dissolution

This is an excellent new route put up by Teddy Langhoute and Daniel Birdwell in the Autumn of 2025, and makes its way up the prominent limestone slab of what we are calling the Gulzor Buttress. The most notable feature are the deep runnels the run nearly top to bottom on this slab. We originally spotted these features from the road on the opposite side of the valley, and after several recon trips, finally put it together. The most prominent of the runnel features start on the 6th pitch, and they are truly amazing, up until that point there is a mixture of easier and moderate slab climbing, and a very interesting hand traverse, all quite reasonably protected with bolts. The steep runnel pitch goes around 5.9/5.10a or 6a. The next is quite long, 50m, following slabby runnels, past a slab crux, and up more runnels. The final (for now) pitch is an easy water formed chimney feature which ends on a big ledge. There is more rock above this, a small bowl of rock that leads to a notch. At the moment what lies beyond this point is unknown, but surely leads to the main ridge of this peak. 

P1 Start on one of the bolted runnel pitches on low angle stone to a large ledge system. 5.3/ or grade 2

Traverse the slope climber's left towards another slab (50m approx), look for a bolted anchor below a juniper tree and a right sloping crack which traverse the steep break in the slabs.

P2 Climb easy steepening slabs, to a small ledge below the steep section of cliff which breaks up the slab. 5.4/ French grade 3.

P3 The worm pitch. Follow bolts up and behind the tree, reaching the horizontal crack. traverse the crack then step over to the right wall and follow bolts to the next belay. 5.10/6a+

P4 A nearly direct leftwards traverse protected by bolts and one piton. 5.8/5a

P5 Climb left from the anchor below some bushes, and up to a small alcove at the bottom of a water runnel feature. There are places for a strong seated belay to protect the 2nd coming off of the anchor. 

Continue up the obvious dihedral/water feature. 5.6/ 4c

P6 The steep Runnel Pitch- follow bolts up the this feature, jam, stem and layback up and around the lip and up a slab to a large ledge. Many options exist for this pitch, and we plan to put several more routes up this feature. 5.10a/6a

P7 The Long Slab runnel pitch. Follow bolts up a slab covered in runnel features. After the first set of runnels there are a few moves (probably the crux) leading to a slanted ledge, and then up a final set of runnels to another large ledge 17 protection bolts. 5.10c / 6b 

P8 Theres a cool chimney feature on the left side of this slab, its bolted and lots of fun! Leads up to another great ledge. 

Requires 2 ropes to rappel!!

Beta photos are best for finding the start. Look for the very distinct runnel features high up on the wall, start on the slabs below, and slightly to the climber's right of this feature. There is a small trail to the right of the scree slope that ascends the valley feeding down towards the parking area. Once you are roughly level with the slab, cross the scree. A large cave/ dihedral feature is the far right side of this section of wall. 

bolts, bolted anchors, P7 has 17 protection bolts