Bumpy Road

Bumpy Road climbs 5 pitches above the Stratocaster ledge more or less straight up to the CSV summit. You'll have to climb Night Patrol or Apricity's first pitch to access the starting ledge. It attempts to connect the vertical faces from this point to the CSV summit. The first two pitches could be bypassed (or bailed) by scrambling around the faces if needed.

P1: 5.10d, 7 bolts, 60'. Start at the low point of the wall at a slight overhang and left-angling crack/seam starting in the middle of the wall. Climb up and right of the crack/seam and continue up the steep wall on good crimps to a blank section (crux) about halfway up the steep lower part of the wall. Continue up and slightly left then back right onto lower-angle rock and a small ledge with anchors, belay here. Move the belay up past a small tree and a sampling of various cacti to the left side of the next ledge below the line of bolts.

P2: 5.10b/c, 12 bolts, 105'. This pitch is a bit wandering, but has some interesting features and fun moves. Some slings or back-cleaning is recommended and will help with rope drag. Climb up low-angle rock for about 40’ to below a bush in the ramp/corner above. Walk a sloping ledge right and up ~10’ to the vertical wall above/right of the bush. Get established on the wall again at the bolt and traverse right above a big flake/arch (feet on flake). Follow bolts up onto a foot ledge, then pull over the steep bulge above (crux). Continue up some more low-angle rock passing the barrel cactus at the top on the right, and onto a big ledge with anchors at the back. Note: there is some soft rock to either side of the bolt line on the upper section of this route, so stay on the bolt line.

P3: 5.10a, 11 bolts, 95'. Start up the small corner a few feet left of the anchors and continue up a seam above. About 30’ up, the route traverses horizontally left on a good holds for ~20’, then goes back up and left on good holds to a mantle onto a low-angle slab. Continue up the slab still trending left to a small horizontal ledge in the middle of a confluence of cracks/seams. One more move over the slight bulge above the small ledge leads to 10’ of low-angle climbing to a big ledge with anchors at the back. (Note: Don’t miss the second to last bolt in the overhang to the right of the confluence feature.)

P4: 5.6, 4 bolts, 65'. Step across the gap to get onto the wall with the anchors. Friction slab up a few moves to easier ground with a slight bulge at the top. Pull over the bulge onto a huge ledge with the steep summit formation above. A pair of anchor bolts (no lower-offs) are on the smooth section of the lower part of the CSV summit boulder formation. Belay here, or continue up the steep boulder feature to the summit.

P5: 5.10a, 3 bolts, 30'. How about a boulder problem to summit the route? Boulder up the steep formation to the right of the anchor bolts. It climbs easier than it looks with big holds and a short punchy crux. Anchor bolts only (no lower-offs). This puts you at the CSV summit. If you look directly north you'll see the true Calico Peak summit in white rock. 

From the CSV summit you can rappel off using the dedicated rappel line. This rappel requires a 70m rope! It goes down the west face and ends on the huge ledge at the right side of Stratocaster crag. From the Strat ledge scramble down the Strat approach/descent passing the Gallery crag and catch the main trail across the wash at the bottom below all the cliffs. 

From the summit of Calico South View, walk the huge ledge heading northwest. Stay high/left on the ledge as it slopes down gradually to a low point (120’). At the low point scramble down to the west/left to the furthest/lowest ledge (50’). Walk back south/left passing under a tree to the first rappel anchor on the ledge just past the tree.

R1: 35m! Rap down as the ledge gradually steepens to vertical, then free hanging for the bottom 30’ to a huge ledge. 70m rope required.

R2: 30m Walk straight back from the wall and look for the next rap anchor just as the ledge rolls over into a cliff. Rap down to a short free hang about halfway down then continue down to a smaller series of ledges, in a left-facing corner, and the next anchor at the lower ledge.

R3: 30m Rap down bearing slightly left off the anchor following a seam/crack to a big ledge (30’) that slopes to vertical-cliff again (30’). Keep bearing slightly left down the vertical face to the next anchor (40’) off another large, more-steeply sloping ledge.

R4: 30m Spot the 2’ barrel cactus growing out of the top of the 15’ boulder below you on the Strat ledge. Aim for the King Cactus and rappel to the Strat ledge. Be mindful of an overhang and stay initially to it's right then back left as you go down.

Want to summit the true Calico Peak summit? Walk about 300' north towards it and locate the dry (or maybe full) lake bed. Cut through this or scramble around it on the left. Just past the dry lake bed, and at the start of another formation, in a vegatated corner there is a line of bolts going up the white rock. This is the route Strange Famous: 5.8, fully bolted, 140' with a midway anchor if needed. 10 bolts on first pitch, 8 on second pitch (anchor at bolt 10).

Walk off via the standard Calico Peak to Second Pullout descent. Go about 200' north then go right in front of cliffs heading towards Highland crag. From Highland crag walk/scramble down to the southeast, cross middle pass and down and out by HST Dome and Sweet Pain wall. See Highland Crag area for more description.

Climb Night Patrol or Apricity's first pitch and walk 50' or 100', respectively, left/northwest to another steep wall accessed by a short 10-15' scramble to the base area.

Fully bolted.