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| Type: | Trad, 115 ft (35 m) |
| GPS: | 38.0184, -109.59953 |
| FA: | the indomitable Steve Hong, 1986 |
| Page Views: | 132 total · 30/month |
| Shared By: | John Alcorn on Apr 3, 2026 |
| Admins: | slim, Cory N, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane, Nathan Fisher |
Access Issue: Limited Toilet Facilities! Raptor Closures!
Details
For questions regarding climbing routes and avoidance areas please contact Jeremy Martin, Outdoor Recreation Planner, at the BLM Monticello Field Office at 435-587-1500.
Limited toilet/port a potty facilities: Have poop plan! Visit: facebook.com/friendsofindia…
saltlakeclimbers.org/news/2…
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas.
Details
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring. Indian Creek Raptor Closure walls include: Echos, The Wall, Far Side, Original Meat, Tenderloins, Second Meat, First Meat, Selfish, Six Star, Cliffs of Insanity, Public Service Wall, Disappointment Cliffs, Fin Wall, Broken Tooth, Cat Wall, Slug Wall, Reservoir Wall, Critic’s Choice.
Description
Out of all the neglected Hong classics, this one stood out as my favorite. Flapjacks is such a sweet line! It involves a crack switch from a splitter to a left-facing corner that makes the traverse sequence on Sinestra seem downright mid.
In Creek Freak, Kelley postulates that Hong may have climbed the left-facing corner directly, bypassing the crack switch. Bro, I seriously doubt it! The lower section of the left-facing corner is full on tips - think .1s and .2s. I don't doubt Hong had the ability, but doing it this way would likely push the pitch into the 5.12 range and require some rock wizardry. Either way, who wants to layback a tips crack when you could pull off a sick crack switch!
Start in the splitter just right of the corner. Climb through hands and thin hands until you're ready to move left. Commit to the switch and battle on through mostly fingers to the anchor.
To reach the base of this route, you've first got to climb to the obvious bench. Be prepared to negotiate a bit of choss in the process. There are several lines you could take. The way we went felt around 5.8. There's a shiny set of bolts waiting for you on the bench that may be used to rappel with a single 70m. Despite there being shiny new bolts at the base of the route, Flapjacks has not been upgraded with modern hardware and only has a single original Hong hanger at the top.
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