NE Buttress

From beneath the NE Buttress, a lone bolt is visible high up on the slab above the end of an obvious crack. Climb the crack to it, and then the slab above it following the rib of rock to the summit. 

P1 (5.9) Climb the chimney to the left, or the layback crack to the right. Both have wide grovel cruxes and meet at a ledge beneath the steeper end of the crack. 

P2 (5.9) Chimney, squeeze, then jam your way up the crack as it pinches down from fists to fingers. Escape onto the skrittly slab and paddle your way up to then above the bolt. Belay at the bowl / chockstone

P3 (5.6 R) Continue up the rib without pro and slab climb your way to the summit area, passing a piton underneath the sub summit boulder, and a large section of 4th class terrain. 

Descent: 3 single rope raps to the SE

Listed as route #20 E Face in Bok Guide

NE buttress of Buzzard’s Roost

Left of chasm b/w the Roost and Bastion

Before entering gully towards TOMF

Gear to 5”