Winter Storm Warning

This is a three pitch line through the main weaknesses on the face of Kenosha Dome. It is an awesome day out! The rock is still cleaning up, but it offers quality climbing in a great setting. This route was named after a winter storm that led to an exciting day on the first attempt at a FA.

Pitch 1 (5.9) Begin in a massive dihedral just to the left of the huge roof at the top of the dome (see the photos). Reachy moves off the ground lead into the main dihedral (5.9). Follow cracks and good holds as you traverse to the right entering another dihedral. Follow this dihedral through a corner with sparse pro to reach a large ledge with minimal pro to belay from. Alternatively, belay from cracks below of above the ledge. This pitch is long and it traverses, so extend your pieces to avoid rope drag. 

Pitch 2 (5.9+) Start 20 feet right of the end of pitch one. Climb up easy terrain off the ledge, and find a splitter hand crack to the left. Climb the hand crack in a corner using holds outside the crack and great jams. Reach a small ledge, and commit to the crux to the left (5.9+). Pull through the crux, and build an anchor using small gear on a ledge above it.

Pitch 3 (5.8+) To the right of this pitch is the massive roof at the top of the dome. Climb up from the top of pitch 2 to find a weakness just to the left of the roof. Thin cracks lead to awkward moves in a cave (5.8+). Mantel, chickenwing, and jam your way through the crux. 30 feet of easy ground leads to a tree to belay off of at the top of the dome.

Descent: Walk off the climber’s left side of the dome. The first gully is a good descent but involves some exposed down climbing (5.2). Climb down a face on the climber’s left side of the gully when it cliffs out. The second gully over is full of bushes but nontechnical. 

Look for the large roof near the top of the dome shaped like a nose. This is located just to the left of it on the ground. A massive dihedral marks the start with another small dihedral to the right of it. 

A standard rack.