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Routes in Beanless Boulder
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Broken and Beanless V3 6A |
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Juni-peenar V4 6B |
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Now Lie in It V3+ 6A+ |
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| Type: | Boulder, 8 ft (2 m) |
| GPS: | 36.0294, -104.3301 |
| FA: | J.Kreitz, A.Carlone |
| Page Views: | 104 total · 20/month |
| Shared By: | Josh K on Feb 22, 2026 |
| Admins: | Jason Halladay, Mike Hoskins, Anna Brown |
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Access Issue: Road Warnings - Stay on all roads, do not drive off the road to avoid muddy sections!
Details
Please do not drive on the roads to Mesteño Canyon when they're muddy, e.g. after a rain storm or from snow melt. These fragile grasslands two-tracks quickly become widened and rutted when driven in these conditions. When the roads are muddy the Forest Service would prefer we stick to the graveled K-600 road (Mills Canyon Rd) and boulder at the zones in the main Mills Canyon area. If you do choose to drive out when roads are muddy, STAY ON THE ROADS, IN THE MUD. DO NOT DRIVE AROUND MUDDY SECTIONS--STAY ON THE ROADS PROPER.
Also, please do not drive on any closed roads. The closure signs are brown carsonite flexible signs. See the map below showing the closed road and the appropriate way to drive to the Mesteño Canyon areas.
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Also, please do not drive on any closed roads. The closure signs are brown carsonite flexible signs. See the map below showing the closed road and the appropriate way to drive to the Mesteño Canyon areas.
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Access Issue: RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is can be easily damaged when recently wet.
Details
Please do not climb on actively wet or recently wet sandstone. Holds more easily break off and problems will be permanently damaged. After a heavy storm, the rock can remain wet, sometimes for several days even though it may not appear wet. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN ROY during or for up to 36 hours after rain/snow. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp, then do not climb.
Description
A shorty but a goody (or so the ladies tell me), this fantastic slab proves it's not the size that matters, it's how you use it. For the recommended start, begin your journey with a right hand on a bump on the arete and a good left hand sidepull.
Those with refined tastes may enjoy the namesake Peenar Start (V5) - begin lower by straddling the baby juniper sapling (required) with a left hand in the crack and a right hand on the obvious ledge around the blunt arete.
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