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Written in Blood
5.11- YDS 6c French 22 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 22 ZA E3 5c British PG13
Avg: 4 from 2
votes
Routes in South Rampart East
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Get Used To It T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Written in Blood T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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You're Just Spare Parts T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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| Type: | Trad, 70 ft (21 m) |
| GPS: | 42.1125, -113.71992 |
| FA: | Eric Bluemn and Mike Engle, 07/2025. |
| Page Views: | 341 total · 78/month |
| Shared By: | Eric Bluemn on Jan 22, 2026 |
| Admins: | GRK, Mike Engle, Eric Bluemn |
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Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: (1) Weather Wall, Yellow Wall, & all the crags north of Twin Sisters are CLOSED. (2) There are no longer trash cans in the park. (3) Highlining ban in place for CIRO and CRSP
Details
(1) The area, crags, and routes just north of the Twin Sisters are on private land and the landowner posted no trespassing notices at the gated road/trail to the area. Any access of these areas and routes is trespassing. The area was closed by the landowner due to trespassing, illegal camping, fires & trash, and disregard of owner's privacy.
Please be respectful of the land owner's wishes and do not climb or hike here. This includes White Lightning, Skinner Roof, Weather Wall, Yellow Wall, Larry's Annihilation, Needle Rock, Mississippi Fred's, and Secret Tom's.
(2) In 2024 CIRO implemented a no trash cans anywhere policy. Be prepared to take your trash home with you. facebook.com/CityOfRocksNPS… and nps.gov/ciro/planyourvisit/…
(3) HIGHLINING IS PROHIBITED
Highlining at City of Rocks National Reserve and Castle Rocks State Park is prohibited as of August 28, 2019.
Here are Google Drive links to the closure and the updated Code of Regulations for CIRO. drive.google.com/open?id=1y… and drive.google.com/open?id=1Y…
Please be respectful of the land owner's wishes and do not climb or hike here. This includes White Lightning, Skinner Roof, Weather Wall, Yellow Wall, Larry's Annihilation, Needle Rock, Mississippi Fred's, and Secret Tom's.
(2) In 2024 CIRO implemented a no trash cans anywhere policy. Be prepared to take your trash home with you. facebook.com/CityOfRocksNPS… and nps.gov/ciro/planyourvisit/…
(3) HIGHLINING IS PROHIBITED
Highlining at City of Rocks National Reserve and Castle Rocks State Park is prohibited as of August 28, 2019.
Here are Google Drive links to the closure and the updated Code of Regulations for CIRO. drive.google.com/open?id=1y… and drive.google.com/open?id=1Y…
Description
A striking thin crack/flake that splits an otherwise blank shield. The gear on this route is finicky and if you miss a critical piece there are several opportunities for a ground fall. Consider a top rope first to dial in the gear beta unless you are very confident at the grade.
From below the crack, make a few thin moves to reach a roof. Place some tricky gear and traverse right to gain the crack. Continue up the crack/flake until it breaks hard left. Climb to the end of the seam, and then continue up and left on featured but unprotected rock to the top of the formation. Belay on hand-sized cams.
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