Type: Trad, Ice, Alpine, 1200 ft (364 m), 7 pitches
GPS: -49.28631, -73.09712
FA: Adriano Cavallaro, Ermanno Salvaterra, Ferruccio Vidi, Nov 1991
Page Views: 104 total · 16/month
Shared By: Sean McLane on Nov 15, 2025
Admins: Mauricio Herrera Cuadra

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Description Suggest change

This would have a line a mile long if it were in Yosemite. From flake jug hauls to splitters with some short face sections, this route has it all. Once at the Col dei Sogni between Standhart and Herron, two starts work - 1) we climbed directly from the col belaying at a single bolt out right or 2) 5m below the col on the east there is a right-facing flake that seems to be how others went. Either way you gain a flake ramp going up and left. If you keep going left to the big right-facing corner, you end up on one variation, or you can stay more towards the middle of the face and join higher where the corner turns into a pedestal. For the left variation of pitch 2, head up and left to a bear-hug crack switch and follow the awesome splitter to the pedestal. For the pitch 3 right variation, link crack and flake features generally straight up to another pedestal stance 5m below a single protection bolt. For the left variation, head left halfway up until you're under a roof (heavily rimed when we were there). The last rock pitch rejoins at the right side of the roof and stops just below the snow.

To reach the summit mushroom we went left up snowfields, right over a smaller mushroom, then straight up two hard rime pitches with a tunnel to the east summit, dropped into a gully between it and the main summit, then climbed easily to the main summit. It is likely continuing a rightward traverse under those last two pitches will deliver you directly to the easy gully where you can exit right at the top to the summit.

Location Suggest change

Gain the Col dei Sogni by rappels from the summit of Standhardt and one pitch of Tobogán or climbing Tobogán directly.

Protection Suggest change

Some ice screws, doubles to 1, single 2,3 worked fine

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