TeJaKy Buttress

Pitch 1 – 30 m, 5.9

Two bolts and gear protect the route. The crux is near the top of the crack.

Pitch 2 – 30 m, low 5th

One bolt plus gear. Follow low-angle face climbing to a bushy tree ledge.

Pitch 3 – 20 m, 5.6

Bolts and gear. From the tree ledge, follow a mossy ramp to a bolt, then enter a corner crack. Climb the crack to the top.

Pitch 4 – 40 m, 5.9

Climb to an obvious bolt, then meander right to a hidden second bolt. Mixed slab and broken features with intermittent gear.

Pitch 5 – 35 m, 5.8

Climb to a bolt, then traverse left. Continue up, placing gear where available. Traverse left around a tree and step up onto it to gain the wall.

Pitch 6 – 40 m, 5.7

Follow the buttress straight up to the anchor.

Pitch 7 – 40 m, 5.5

Continue up the buttress pass two bolts.

Descent (rappel/scramble)

From the top, walk East (climbers left) to the flagged tree, scramble down a gully to a fixed rope, descend the fixed rope to obvious ledge, scramble ledge right then back left, continue down keeping right of the gully to flagged tree where you will find a flagged anchor. Rap down 30 m, leave rap following slopping ledge right then back left, continue scrambling down to reach the final rap station that brings you right down to the low ridge.

Driving Approach

From Squamish, drive north to the Chance Creek FSR turnoff (Lucille Lake/Roe Creek). Follow Chance FSR past the Roe Creek FSR junction and continue as the road drops into a new cut block. Chance Peak will be visible on your left. Take the next left FSR and continue, ignoring all other spurs. The road veers sharply right and climbs a steep, loose corner. At the top, stay left. You’ll now be heading south, with views of Daisy Lake in the valley below. Stay left at the next junction, and again at the one after that. Follow the FSR through a couple of cross ditches until it ends at a creek washout. Park here. Drive time from Squamish: 30–40 minutes.

Trail / Route

From the car park, follow the FSR and cross the creek. Continue along the FSR to its end. Near the top, you'll find an open meadow clear-cut. Look for pink flagging tape on a tree to the left—this marks the entrance to the clear-cut. Follow a small stream through the flagged marshy cut block until it leads uphill toward treeline. Continue along a faint trail through forest and several steep sections. After crossing four wetlands, you'll reach a small tarn/lake—a great potential cabin site. Navigate around the lake's far end and up a short boulder field. Enter the forest againand follow a wall to a creek. Ascend the creek drainage to another boulder field, then turn left and follow it into open alpine talus terrain. The cliff will now be in view. Continue over several divots—remnants of a past glacier. A few small tarns offer water and swimming options. Ascend loose, steep talus or snow (depending on the year) to reach the base of the left-hand buttress.

Stats: 2.8 km and 500 m elevation gain to base.

Bolts & gear, all anchors are bolted. Bring a single rack with doubles of #0.5, #0.75, and #1. Rap station takes you down to the ridge on the east side of the far left of the wall.