El Gato
5.12b YDS 7b French 26 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 26 ZA E5 6b British
| Type: | Sport, 80 ft (24 m), 4 pitches |
| GPS: | 44.53684, 16.91935 |
| FA: | Nick Weicht Aug 2025 |
| Page Views: | 75 total · 11/month |
| Shared By: | Nick Weicht on Aug 22, 2025 |
| Admins: | Steven Lucarelli |
Description
P1. 7b 22m 10 bolts, 2 bolt anchor
Start from a large ledge that runs along the base of the wall and stem up an inside corner. This will lead you to a series of roofs. Trend left beneath the overhanging features to a difficult sequence that follows a crack around the lip. A few easy moves will bring you to a comfortable belay stance.
P2. 6c 20m, 9 bolts 2 bolt anchor
Start from a comfortable belay stance and move to stemming crack moves up the inside corner and past a technical overhanging bulge. Continue to follow the crack and an inside corner up to a ledge where you will encounter a two bolt anchor.
P3. 6c 20m 8ish bolts, 2 bolt anchor
Start up technical face climbing on slopey holds in between nice ledges. This will bring you to a crack, at the top of which you will see a two bolt anchor and a large comfortable belay.
P4 6c+ 28m 9ish bolts, 2 bolt anchor
Start up a bouldery sequence to get to a juggy ledge and clip the second bolt. Steep climbing up nice crack systems will eventually lead you to easy alpine scrambling. Follow the bolted breadcrumbs to the top of the wall where an anchor is located in a large block. This marks the top of the technical moves.
Scramble up the last 20 meters to the viewing platform.
Location
Approach 40 minutes to bottom of the route
Approach 10 minutes to the top of route
Access Mačkića Tower by parking at the watershed and walking on a hiking trail along the canyon room. About 70 meters after the bench / viewpoint, turn left on a small walking trail with a cable going across the natural bridge onto the top of the tower. Here you will find another bench and viewing area. To get to the top of the route, climb into a narrow chimney a few metres south of the bench and walk downhill to a large black with two glue-in bolts on top of the cliff. This is the anchor of pitch 4. Rappel the route and climb out.
You can also reach the base of the climb via a bushwack that traverses the base of the cliff and passes the single pitch sector.



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