Strange Conveyance
5.12b YDS 7b French 26 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 26 ZA E5 6b British
| Type: | Sport, 115 ft (35 m), 2 pitches |
| GPS: | 37.37021, -118.68611 |
| FA: | Taimur Ahmad, Jun 2025 |
| Page Views: | 49 total · 6/month |
| Shared By: | Rob Perrin on Jul 2, 2025 |
| Admins: | Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
Description
ATTENTION: I need to add another clip on the right quick link, first anchors. Right now we have 1 steel anchor clip, 1 quick link, so bring a draw or two.
THANKS:
This route would not have happened without the friendship, love, support...whatever that "something" is that we sometimes have extra to give, that my friends were able to give me. I think the original vision was first seen through Taimur's eyes for this line, but what ensued was an inspiring mentorship through more difficult route development and climbing than I had done before. Through the process of making the existing line that would become Strange Conveyance accessible for safe climbing, there have been countless wins, struggles, and lonesome evenings cleaning. Each phase that seemed to overstay its welcome and was punctuated by incredible energy and love filled group sessions or partner sessions, attended by eager and supportive friends. I am proud to have done a lot of the work, and entirely satisfied that Taimur came back for the FA send.
FA Party: Taimur Ahmad(FA), Victor Fenton, Sarah Brown, and Robert Perrin.
TL;DR: Strange Conveyance is an absolutely incredible first pitch, with the option to continue up an easier extension, to a second set of anchors, with an 80m rope.
Strange Conveyance(Pitch 1): 5.12b, 8 bolts
Playful climbing flows through committing moves, and a welcomed rest or two, until rocking under the bottom of a shallow slanted roof half way up the first pitch. After pulling thin and sustained moves under the roof (and maybe a hold on the roof seam), you look to gain the turned down horn and clip the perma-draw. Like me, harder climbing may have already started at this point, and you'll continue to pull through a not-so-readable v4/5 crux, styling through the main weakness in the roof feature, exiting the discomfort onto some jugs for another 10-15', to the first anchors.
Extension (Pitch 2): 5.10-, 5 bolts
From the P1 anchors, the bolt line veers left around the shallow dihedral (This feature didn't seem climbable to me), but the line comes back to the centerline of the climb, and up a ramp which is out of view of the belayer, directly above the belay - the bolt line should be easily followable. The second pitch needs to clean up quite a bit, but it is bolted safely over a ledge fall potential.
Location
Mungie Gully. Best approach is to park as if to approach the Fantasy crag. Ascend the Talus to the low right of the Fantasy triangle feature. When you get up high enough to see across the talus fan, go up a little more to more level and stable rocks, and cross directly across the talus, north, to Mungie Wall. On this walk Strange Conveyance will be obvious, looking for the perma draw.



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