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Routes in Western Alcove
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A Squire's Tale S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Drawn and Quartered T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Flesh Wound T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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King's Gambit T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Moats and Hoes T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Village Idiot T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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| Type: | Trad, 130 ft (39 m), 2 pitches |
| GPS: | 38.7429, -104.98328 |
| FA: | FKA: Kyle Okular and Matt Sellick, January 2025 |
| Page Views: | 82 total · 7/month |
| Shared By: | Kyle O on Jun 9, 2025 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Description
Moats and Hoes is an excellent two pitch route worth climbing. The first pitch is the crux pitch, and the second pitch is an excellent dihedral with triple cracks that is around 5.8. Both pitches have bolted anchors on top. Excellent pro is available throughout.
Pitch 1 begins in a sharp dihedral, enters a pod, and then swings out left on a horizontal hand crack and onto a ledge and a bolted anchor. Pitch 2 moves up the triple crack dihedral to climber's left of this anchor.
An alternative to pitch 2, a party can climb the bolted arete A Squire's Tale (5.10+) instead of the standard P2.
Descent: do two single rope rappels to the ground. It's recommended to simply lower off/top rope pitch 2 and then make one rappel to the ground.
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