Tracheotomy

This climb is the mixed version of Cutthroat WI6 when the ice does not form completely. The actual ice climb only forms completely approximately once every ten years. This incredible climb overhangs Duffy Highway, above the gravel pit, just southwest of the Cinnamon Forest Service campsite. 

Six pitches lead to the top of the overhanging wall. The third pitch involves M5 moves through a squeeze chimney. Protect with stubbies in the ice blobs. A new bolt anchor at the top provides a comfy belay/rap spot.

Traverse hard left approximately 100m to the base of the final headwall pitches. The first pitch steepens into WI5+ flower petal ice. Find a comfy belay spot with bolts at about 40m. The 5th pitch is the crux. Depending on ice conditions there may be more or less mixed climbing. Five (5) bolts protect the moves up towards the final overhanging dagger. A bolted belay/rap anchor exists at the top of the dagger, under the small roof guarding the top. 

The last pitch can be connected into one long pitch with a 70m rope. From the bolted belay, climb ice smears above the belay finding a small pocket in the rock to either hook or stein-pull to reach above the last overhanging daggers into good ice. The last crux here is a little spicy but ends quickly when you pull up to the final ice. 

Climb easy WI5 ice to the top where a tree belay exists on the right. Belay/rap here off a cordalette and maillon.  

Park at the gravel pit just southwest of the Cinnamon Forest Rec Site on the Duffy Highway 99. Fjord the Cayoosh River (waders and poles help a lot). The water is only just above the knees deep. Across the river, head straight up slope approximately 100m then begin diagonalling leftward towards the gully. 

Approach takes 20-30mins once across the river.

Ice screws and bolts.