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Routes in PILAR
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50 Years Of Garfield Phones V0- 4- |
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Calico Jack V3 6A |
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Fiddlesticks V4- 6B |
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Only Room For One, Jack V0 4 |
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Windlass V1+ 5 |
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| Type: | Boulder, 15 ft (5 m) |
| GPS: | 36.02906, -104.33002 |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 88 total · 5/month |
| Shared By: | Miles Johnson on Dec 11, 2024 |
| Admins: | Jason Halladay, Mike Hoskins, Anna Brown |
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Access Issue: Road Warnings - Stay on all roads, do not drive off the road to avoid muddy sections!
Details
Please do not drive on the roads to Mesteño Canyon when they're muddy, e.g. after a rain storm or from snow melt. These fragile grasslands two-tracks quickly become widened and rutted when driven in these conditions. When the roads are muddy the Forest Service would prefer we stick to the graveled K-600 road (Mills Canyon Rd) and boulder at the zones in the main Mills Canyon area. If you do choose to drive out when roads are muddy, STAY ON THE ROADS, IN THE MUD. DO NOT DRIVE AROUND MUDDY SECTIONS--STAY ON THE ROADS PROPER.
Also, please do not drive on any closed roads. The closure signs are brown carsonite flexible signs. See the map below showing the closed road and the appropriate way to drive to the Mesteño Canyon areas.
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Also, please do not drive on any closed roads. The closure signs are brown carsonite flexible signs. See the map below showing the closed road and the appropriate way to drive to the Mesteño Canyon areas.
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Access Issue: RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is can be easily damaged when recently wet.
Details
Please do not climb on actively wet or recently wet sandstone. Holds more easily break off and problems will be permanently damaged. After a heavy storm, the rock can remain wet, sometimes for several days even though it may not appear wet. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN ROY during or for up to 36 hours after rain/snow. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp, then do not climb.
Description
Windlass climbs a system of crimp rails about 15’ right of Pimp The Peg Leg.
Start on a downpull left hand crimp rail that is long and a right hand downpull or sidepull box that can be used with thumb catch (see picture for start holds). A fortuitous layback foot sit below to help the start and keep the grade in check.
Lift off and snatch any of the upper horizontal crimp rails and pull through or match to gain feet and solid jug climbing to the top out ledges.
A decent warmup and surprising little crux that quickly mellows out.
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