Type: Trad, TR, 30 ft (9 m)
GPS: 38.44809, -79.12193
FA: Eddie Begoon
Page Views: 38 total · 3/month
Shared By: Wade Banks on Nov 24, 2024
Admins: Shawn Heath, Aaron Parlier

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

A hard blank slabby crack route put up by Eddie Begoon. It is THIN with a roof lacking an obvious way over the top and not around the right side. The guidebook says "Rightmost crack on this face; finish on the overhang. If you go right around the overhang you end up on stairway to heaven and can take the easy ramp to the top. I found no place to build an anchor below the overhang so I assume one should pull the roof and then do the easy scramble that is the top of stairway to heaven to either topout or build a TR anchor and lower down. This route has no bolts and not much if any gear better done as a top rope. Bring some static cord to tie off to trees back from cliff If you use the small on ledge please protect it or it will not live very long. Depending on your anchor skills you can place some trad gear or there are good trees that get better as you get farther from the cliff. This route has no bolts and not much if any gear better done as a top rope.

Location Suggest change

Around the corner from melonhead past the stairway to heaven ramp. The first super thin crack you come to on the right side of the wall. The first hairline ends, and another one begins slightly to the left.

Protection Suggest change

Very little if any. Maybe micronuts and small cams there is a possible placement or two below and on the face of the overhang, but the overhang looks suspiciously disconnected. Lead at own discretion. TR anchor can be made from large trees back from cliff or with trad gear in rock on top of cliff. Bring at least 40' of static cord I usually bring 70' and have never regretted bringing all of it.

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