Type: Boulder, 15 ft (5 m)
GPS: 38.7615, -77.2077
FA: Jesse Herr
Page Views: 364 total · 19/month
Shared By: Jesse Herr on Nov 14, 2024
Admins: Shawn Heath, Aaron Parlier

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

History: We first saw the line in December 2023 after another session on Black Sun with no send. Jimmy and I were able to do all the moves between the two of us in the first session although our original beta was at least a full grade harder than the easiest beta now. Trying to make this climb the least arbitrary possible, as long as you start on the correct start holds and you climb straight up, anything is fair game to use!

Beta: Start on a good left hand side pull and small right hand side pull crimp that feels like it could be on burden of dreams! Set a left heel hook on the start of tiger vs. crane and bump left hand to a flat edge ~2ft directly above left hand start. Back-flag and crank off left hand to bring your right hand up to the good part of the seam/crack. These first two moves are in my opinion the hardest individual moves. Easier beta is to bump left hand up and out left to a good pinch, then bring right hand up to where the seam starts to widen. Move left had to the lip, match and mantle!

Easiest Beta (Most likely): youtube.com/shorts/afu_PIi0CkY

FA Beta (First eliminate, not using the pinch): youtube.com/shorts/f3kq42NM07s

There are potentially some lower holds than the ones used for this stand start that I could see for a sit start but it is currently above my pay grade. If anyone adds a sit start, please add it to mountain project as a separate climb!

Location Suggest change

Just right of Tiger vs. Crane.

Protection Suggest change

1-3 pads and potentially a spotter based on which beta you use.

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