Capilano Classic

What if Star Chek was harder, more adventurous, and had much better climbing? According to the Wheater guidebook, "You can't claim local status until you slay the classic." 

The first pitch has been reclaimed by nature and never gets done, while the last pitch traps dirt that gets washed down from the forest above. However, the middle two pitches are steep enough that they stay clean. The climbing on them is highly varied - ranging from gymnastic sport to techy crack - and extremely high quality.

P1. Start on the riverbank and climb up to the huge ledge. Highly vegetated, most parties skip this one. 5.8, 10m

P2. Head straight up the bolted face to the right of the wide left-trending crack. A muscular traverse curves right then straight up to a belay station on a ledge. 5.10+, 15m bolts

P3. Traverse left past bolts to gain a corner system. Schmooze upwards to a belay stance on the left at the top of a finger crack. 5.11-

P4. The dirt crux. Move left along the ledge and go straight up a ten foot sandy handcrack to a ludicrously dirty ledge. Clip the bolt on the face out right, then do some 5.7 dirt climbing to reach the handline. Tree belay at the top. 5.9/10a, 15m

The start of the second pitch is the second anchor from the right when you rap down to the big ledge.

Mostly bolt protected with about 20ft of crack on P3 and P4. About 10 draws, singles purple to gold camalot, nuts useful for P3.