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Sphinx
5.13b YDS 8a French 29 Ewbanks IX+ UIAA 30 ZA E7 6c British
Avg: 4 from 2
votes
Early Access
Routes in University Wall
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Blow at High Dough S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Crimps and Throws S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Curb Stomp a Dead Deer in Crocs S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Death by Hoax S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Dusty the Cat S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Escape is at hand for the travelin' man S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Feed the Beast S 5.13c/d 8b 31 X 31 E8 7a |
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Hello My Baby, Hello My Britanny S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Imposter Syndrome S 5.14d 9a 35 XI 36 E10 7c |
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Letterbuck S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Pass the Dog S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Semantics S 5.15a 9a+ 36 XI+ 37 E11 7c |
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Smells like Teen Fascism S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a |
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Sphinx S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Sphinx Alt S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
| Type: |
Sport, 70 ft (21 m)
Fixed Hardware
(2) |
| GPS: | 51.04038, -115.19702 |
| FA: | Ross Suchy, 2000 |
| Page Views: | 157 total · 6/month |
| Shared By: | Jonny Coe on Aug 31, 2024 |
| Admins: | Dave Rone, Tom Jones, Richard Rose, Rhys Beaudry |
Access Issue: Hardware, Issues, Access
Details
Check climbalberta.ca/ for access updates and report issues (hardware and approach / crag issues) using their issue tracker. Get involved!
Description
Maybe one of the best 8a/5.13b routes in the Bow Valley. Tricky, highly technical climbing on perfect holds from the moment you step off the ground until you clip the chains. Not a single bad move on the whole route! Originally graded a rather sandbagged 5.13a, subsequent repeats saw the grade jump to 5.13c. After many dozens of ascents now, the grade has settled at a very solid and suitable 5.13b/8a. Regardless of grade, one of the most memorable and fun climbs anywhere.
The business is the first 5-6 bolts, with super tricky moves between slopey holds, micro crimps, and terrible feet. Hit the horn at 1/3 of the way, shake out, and get ready for another 5.12a to the chains with micro stances and rests on a slightly kicked back headwall. Extremely high quality!
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