Type: Trad, Alpine, 1000 ft (303 m), 6 pitches
GPS: 36.46721, -118.5589
FA: Tom Sicilian & Jack Schlinkert August 2024
Page Views: 70 total · 4/month
Shared By: Tommy Sicilian on Aug 31, 2024
Admins: Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

 Fun crack climbing on good rock with ample protection up the left most formation. All gear belays on nice ledges. 

  1. 5.8-65m-start at the toe and move up the right facing layback corner. Continue up and left before traversing right over the roof up into alcove with large blocks under an overhanging v-shaped corner.

  2. 5.10-35m- Climb through the v-shaped corner, continue up cracks until you see a hand crack crack on the right face. Step right into the crack and take it through a fun mini roof, then move right to a ledge below a right facing corner. 

  3. 5.10-40m- climb the right facing corner to easier cracks. Traverse right at the bushy ledge around to the right side of the pillar (possible to continue straight up). Continue up to the steep black cracks. Climb the cracks and do a tricky move left across the top of the pillar to a large juggy block. Continue left to a nice big belay ledge. 

  4. 5.9-45- take the left crack up to lower angle terrain. Continue up and build belay to the left of double roofs.

  5. 5.9-60m-move right through the low angle roofs. Then trend back left to a right facing corner with a finger crack on the right. Take the finger crack up until you can step left to climb the hand crack in the right facing corner to its end. Move right to a nice ledge.

  6. 5.6-65m- move right off the belay then face climb up with good pro aiming for a left facing corner. Climb the finger crack corner. Blocky climbing trending right takes you to the summit. 

Descent

Option 1-hike skiers left and down the backside of the formation toward Cyclamen lake. We did one rap off a slung boulder into a steep gully, but it is probably possible to stay higher left and scramble down towards the lake. Keep heading left and down through the slabs back to spring lake

Option 2- hike to the summit of the main formation and follow the decent directions from there.

Location Suggest change

Left most formation of the three formations that make up Spring Lake Wall

Protection Suggest change

Doubles-0.2-#3 (black totem-#3), nuts, alpine draws

Photos

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