Type: | Trad, Alpine, 1200 ft (364 m), 8 pitches |
FA: | Vitaliy Musiyenko, Brian Prince, Brandon Thau - 08/2021 |
Page Views: | 1,624 total · 70/month |
Shared By: | Brian Prince on May 31, 2022 |
Admins: | Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
Moro Rock (SEKI) and Chimney Rocks usually have nesting closures every year from April 1 to August 15.
As of April 2016, all routes are open to climbing.
Description
We thought this turned out to be a great route with an exceptional variety of pitches all on good rock. Not as many splitters as next door, but awesome climbing. As a bonus, you don't have to climb the 200' total junk rock to approach like some of the routes to the right.
P1 - 11b 200' - Just a bit of rotten rock to easy crack. Face traverse right at bolt to next crack system. Up to a roof and then face climb past bolts to anchor on great ledge
P2 - 11a 180' - Take the corner on the right. Bolts lead up and then left to an arete. Climb above the last bolt on the face, then transfer left into the left-facing corner. Up corner to a roof and undercling right to the belay.
P3 - 10d 120' - Go back left to the corner and up just a bit. Bust around to the left into another corner. Go left again to crescent crack with crux transfer at the top. Wild stemming leads to roof and belay.
P4 - 11a 80' - Wander up and right to high bolt. Downclimb and dyno right to belay ledge.
P5 - 11b 150' - Awesome cracks in the corner go on for a while. 2 bolts protect a quick blank section. Higher, 2 more bolts protect a section where it pinches shut. At a roof, traverse to the belay, downclimbing a move or two. Protect the follower.
P6 - 10c 100' - Amazing hand crack
P7 - 5.9 200' - Headwall splitters. We traversed to one on the left. Higher, make sure you aim to go a bit leftward into the left corner.
P8 - 10a - 150' - Cool, obvious crack system. At the junction of handcracks, take the right one (hidden from belay) to the nice top-out ledge
300' of low 5th scrambling leads to the summit
Rap the route on fixed anchors from the top of P8 with two tropes. Or walk off from the summit.
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