Chasing a Dream
5.11b YDS 6c French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E3 5c British
| Type: | Sport, 330 ft (100 m), 4 pitches |
| GPS: | 43.59635, 18.23428 |
| FA: | Nick Weicht, Chase Tomas |
| Page Views: | 75 total · 4/month |
| Shared By: | Nick Weicht on Aug 25, 2024 |
| Admins: | Steven Lucarelli |
Description
Chasing a Dream
100 m 6c
P1 22m 6b+ 10 bolts, 2 bolt anchor
Begin on a shared start clipping three expansion bolts before breaking left around the arret. Follow a series of inside corners that trend left to a belay stands at the second ledge.
It is possible to link pitch 1&2 for a 50 session.
P2 28m 6a 12 bolts, 2 bolt anchor
Follow a right trending crack system up an inside corner to a white colored blocky roof. Sneak around the right side of this feature before breaking straight up the cliff face following a line of bolts. Enjoy the up steep terrain with good holds till you reach anchor located add a good stance at the left corner of a right trending roof.
P3 24m b+ 13 bolts, 2 bolt anchor
Start up a short stemming inside corner to a courtesy clip before pulling around a small arret to a sloping ledge. From this point you will follow a right trending ramp before breaking straight up on face holds to reach a couple bulges that will reveal the next comfortable belay stands at a large grassy ledge.
P4 26m 6c 12 bolts, 2 bolt anchor
Start up the left trending wide crack on slightly overhanging terrain with good holds. Break right on the juggy ledge around a small pine tree to access the crux refrigerator block. Slap pull and knee bar your way around this slightly overhanging feature before enjoying sustained yet slightly easier climbing as you trend left up the inside corner to the top of the cliff.
Location
This route is located on the tallest portion of sustained rock on the main head wall. Shared a start for the first three bolts before breaking left on glue-ins.
Approach time
25 min Boulder Field
30 min multi-pitch
Park on the left side of the road if driving downhill across from the trailhead. Where the approach trail meets the pavement you will be able to see the upper half of the main head wall peaking above the valley floor about a kilometer and a half to the west. Follow a trekking trail marked by red and white paint that will lead you to the boulder field at the base of the cliff.



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