Type: Trad, Alpine, 800 ft (242 m), 6 pitches, Grade III
GPS: 43.71199, -110.80674
FA: Chouinard, Lugbill, Perch
Page Views: 63 total · 3/month
Shared By: jediah porter on Aug 19, 2024
Admins: Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

Great route. Steep for a Tetons 5.9. In a good way. Approach isn't as bad as you might fear (for most climbers, about 10-15% longer than getting to Irene's, for instance) and the descent is chill. The setting couldn't be more idyllic and wild. In a few summer trips into Avalanche Canyon for rock climbing, I've seen far more moose than people. 

Guidebook descriptions (Jackson/Ortenburger and Gams) are mostly adequate. Photos in the books aren't particularly helpful, so I marked one up here for you all. 

Notably, the Gams topo starts P1 pretty far up the cliff; I've done this route twice and both times we did a pitch or two before even reaching Gams' pitch 1. 

Also, higher up, descriptions in both books downplay and/or are vague about how far along the intermediate ledge/ramp one is to traverse. It is pretty darn far. From the lowest possible entry to the ledge/ramp (accessing this ledge via the 5.8 white crystal pitch) to where one climbs off the ledge, it is 55 meters. Shorter (~45 meters) if one accesses the ridge via the 5.9 roof move. One can climb off this ledge sooner, but the climbing quality suffers considerably. It is worth finding the "correct" steep, tight corner to finish with. Gams says that you climb off the ramp "with the end of the ramp in sight". This wasn't helpful to me and my partners. By that "end of ramp in sight" logic you could either leave the ramp too soon, assuming you are seeing the end, or climb too far, assuming you aren't yet seeing the end. Instead, ID the money pitch from afar (using my photo, perhaps) and then keep it in sight for up close navigation. 

Location Suggest change

Use the guidebooks, maps, photos. 

Protection Suggest change

1.5 to 2 sets of cams to #3 camalot.

Photos

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