Mountain Project Logo

Routes in North Side Rock Climbs

Flying Buttress, Good for the Soul T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, Alpine, 600 ft, 4 pitches, Grade II
FA: Tom LoHuis & William Stanley, June 18 1993
Page Views: 181 total, 2/month
Shared By: Chris Wenker on Oct 3, 2011
Admins: Mike Snyder

You & This Route


1 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

The leftmost (western) buttress, when facing north from Taminah Lake, presents a fine short adventure climb. Described by Ortenburger and Jackson (1996), this route has good bang for the buck (and may be a tiny bit sandbagged at 5.7).
P1: Start ~30 feet west of a set of pine trees and climb blocky terrain to a gray ledge below the open book.
P2: Start up the left side of the open book, switch to the right when convenient, and then follow the notch through the left side of the roof at the top. 25 feet higher is a belay ledge.
P3: Switch to the next corner system to the left, pass an overhang, and climb to the flattened ridge crest.
P4: One short headwall, and easy terrain lies beyond.

Location

The top of Pitch 4 ends on a bench below the western side of the summit of the overall formation. To reach the actual summit, it may take another low-5th-class pitch. Instead, if the summit is not desired, traverse the 3rd/4th-class bench around the northern side of the formation into the talus gully.

Protection

A single set of nuts and cams up to gold C4 is just sufficient. A #3 C4 could be useful in the roof.

Photos

0 Comments