Pan

Wow, some ultra classic climbing

In time I assume a better way will be found through the final roof.(pheasant direct is the more direct finish)

rap the route to get to the start, a 60m rope and tag line are nice. Basically you can start rappelling from trees on razor point which is very obviously marked on the Avenza Linville map.  Maybe future trail work will facilitate a hike to the base? I believe descending through zen canyon and walking over is the easiest way to hike there?

P1

5.5

80ft 

Finding the crux pitches on rap is fairly easy, directly below that is the obvious 5.9 flake crack to ledge. Below that is a somewhat reasonable looking face with one low nasty blank section, so instead we walked 15ft to climbers left on the ground and found an excellent corner for the first 75% of the pitch, at the end of the corner step right onto the face and continue straight up to the breakfast ledge, make belay on the right side of the ledge in a nice flake crack feature.

P2

5.9

45ft

Classic little pitch. Step climbers left from the belay and up into the beautiful mega flake, the left side is excellent climbing and gear with one final move to gain jugs! 

P3

5.10

65ft

This is it, that money pitch. Its wide, its chicken wings and chicken legs and a chimney where you wriggle up like a human worm, take a deep breath and hold it and it will lock you in for a rest. Surprisingly has quite a bit of good small and medium gear at the back of the chimney and feels well protected, eventually you caterpillar your way out through the roof and then turn around in the chimney big step down and left and you’re out! But its not over,40ft more climbing brings you to the second roof, belay here or link into next easier pitch. There is also the very BOLD option to leave the crack and climb easy but unprotected face climbers left and then rejoin the crack at the end of the roof.

P4

5.7

60ft 

from the roof belay step left under the roof with plenty of gear, the first move or two seems to be the crux, turn the roof and head up the pleasant corner to the lunch ledge and make a belay on trees.

OPTION ONE GO STRAIGHT UP THE RIGHT SIDE OF THE FACE AND FINISH ON DINNER LEDGE, OR OPTION 2 GO UP 25FT AND MORE RIGHT TO SMALL LEDGE

OPTION 1 SHORT FINISH ON DINNER LEDGE

P5

5.6  

90ft

From the belay the face above you can likely be climbed a dozen ways on easy terrain, the rightish side is cleaner climbing and finishes on the dinner ledge. Finish on any other route up there or hike off

OPTION 2 CONTINUE TO TOP

P5

5.4

45ft

Climb very easy terrain up and right onto small sub ledge belay here. Both options start at the same spot, option 2 heads left about 1/3 of the way up the face to the small tree ledge out right.

P6

5.6 R

110ft

Walk to the upper climbers right side of the tree ledge, a very nice corner eventually dumps you out onto a face and with some meandering gaining the ledge below the roof is possible, quite run out near by the end of this pitch. The far right side of the roof connects to the face, belay here.

P7

5.9+

110ft
From the right corner of this upper roof go up a few feet on the easiest terrain you can find, then start making a hard left traverse for roughly 40ft, you are then able to pull over this small section through a number three crack, belay just after or continue through the bushes to the top out at razor point

Atop the cliff, my pan I hold,

Slips from my grasp, the air turns cold.

It tumbles down the rugged face,

Handle and lid fall out of place.

They scatter 'cross the rocky ground,

Echoing with a hollow sound.

Below, they lie in silent wait,

Symbols now of fleeting fate.

I climb below, the parts to find,

In craggy nooks, with patient mind.

One by one, I gather near,

Each piece unique, each piece held dear.

With gentle hands, I mend each part,

Restoring form, restoring heart.

Handle and lid, I fit them right,

Bringing back the pan to light.

Though broken once, now whole again,

A tale of loss, of effort's gain.

For in the gathering, love's true art,

Mends not just metal, but the heart.

Right side of razor buttress