Pan
5.10- YDS 6a French 18 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 18 ZA E1 5a British
| Type: | Trad, 500 ft (152 m), 7 pitches |
| GPS: | 35.87312, -81.90373 |
| FA: | KS TF |
| Page Views: | 164 total · 8/month |
| Shared By: | Ti ck on Jun 17, 2024 · Updates |
| Admins: | Steve Lineberry, Aaron Parlier |
Shortoff Mountain South: All routes between and including C.O and Paradigm Shift are closed.
Shortoff Mountain North: All climbing routes, cliff rim, and campsites within the red band marked on the map are closed to entry. No foot traffic or camping above or below the cliff in this section. Contact the USFS for more details: 828 652 2144.
NC Wall/Apricot Buttress/The Camel: On the NC Wall, all routes between and including Tightrope and Bumblebee Buttress are closed. Apricot Buttress and The Camel are closed.
Bynum Bluff: All routes are closed.
Description
To get to the start:
Find your way to razor point, continue south along the top of the cliff until you can switchback then descend a steep gully to dinner ledge, it is difficult to find the next chute because the trail splits on dinner ledge but its there and takes you to lunch ledge. Make your way to the right side of lunch ledge and rap 53m to the breakfast ledge, build an anchor and rap off that to touch the ground.
Or approach entirely on foot via zen canyon and a bit of bushwhacking (razor canyon is ugly hiking and uglier rapels but can be done)
P1
5.5
80ft
Finding the crux pitches on rap is fairly easy, directly below that is the obvious 5.9 flake crack to ledge. Below that is a somewhat reasonable looking face with one low nasty blank section, so instead walk15ft to climbers left on the ground and find an excellent corner for the first 75% of the pitch, at the end of the corner step right onto the face and continue straight up to the breakfast ledge, make belay on the right side of the ledge in a nice flake crack feature.(you might rap off this anchor and come right back to it?)
P2
5.9
45ft
Classic little pitch. Step climbers left from the belay and up into the beautiful mega flake, the left side is excellent climbing and gear with one final move to gain jugs!
P3
5.10
65ft
This is it, that money pitch. Its wide, its chicken wings and chicken legs and a chimney where you wriggle up like a human worm, take a deep breath and hold it and it will lock you in for a rest. Surprisingly has quite a bit of good small and medium gear at the back of the chimney and feels well protected, eventually you caterpillar your way out through the roof and then turn around in the chimney big step down and left and you’re out! But its not over,40ft more climbing brings you to the second roof, belay here or link into next easier pitch. There is also the very BOLD option to leave the crack and climb easy but unprotected face climbers left and then rejoin the crack at the end of the roof.
P4
5.7
60ft
from the roof belay step left under the roof with plenty of gear, the first move or two seems to be the crux, turn the roof and head up the pleasant corner to the lunch ledge and make a belay on trees.
Here the climb splits right to a small ledge for the original finish or straight up for an easier and more direct finish.
Easier and more direct finish
P5
5.6
90ft
Go straight up the right side of this face to the dinner ledge. See “pheasant direct” for the most direct way, hike out via the chute or several other climbs are options
Original finish
P5
5.4
45ft
Climb very easy terrain up and right onto small sub ledge belay here. Both options start at the same spot, option 2 heads left about 1/3 of the way up the face to the small tree ledge out right.
P6
5.6 R
110ft
Walk to the upper climbers right side of the tree ledge, a very nice corner eventually dumps you out onto a face and with some meandering gaining the ledge below the roof is possible, quite run out near by the end of this pitch. The far right side of the roof connects to the face, belay here.
P7
5.9+
110ft
From the right corner of this upper roof go up a few feet on the easiest terrain you can find, then start making a hard left traverse for roughly 40ft, you are then able to pull over this small section through a number three crack, belay just after or continue through the bushes to the top out at razor point
Atop the cliff, my pan I hold,
Slips from my grasp, the air turns cold.
It tumbles down the rugged face,
Handle and lid fall out of place.
They scatter 'cross the rocky ground,
Echoing with a hollow sound.
Below, they lie in silent wait,
Symbols now of fleeting fate.
I climb below, the parts to find,
In craggy nooks, with patient mind.
One by one, I gather near,
Each piece unique, each piece held dear.
With gentle hands, I mend each part,
Restoring form, restoring heart.
Handle and lid, I fit them right,
Bringing back the pan to light.
Though broken once, now whole again,
A tale of loss, of effort's gain.
For in the gathering, love's true art,
Mends not just metal, but the heart.



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