Gold Coast Cliffs Rock Climbing
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Elevation: | 2,680 ft | 817 m |
GPS: |
35.88116, -81.90287 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
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Page Views: | 53,027 total · 251/month | |
Shared By: | nbrown on Nov 6, 2007 | |
Admins: | Steve Lineberry, Aaron Parlier |
fs.usda.gov/detail/nfsnc/ne…
Shortoff Mountain South: All routes between and including C.O and Paradigm Shift are closed.
Shortoff Mountain North: All climbing routes, cliff rim, and campsites within the red band marked on the map are closed to entry. No foot traffic or camping above or below the cliff in this section. Contact the USFS for more details: 828 652 2144.
NC Wall/Apricot Buttress/The Camel: On the NC Wall, all routes between and including Tightrope and Bumblebee Buttress are closed. Apricot Buttress and The Camel are closed.
Bynum Bluff: All routes are closed.
Shortoff Mountain South: All routes between and including C.O and Paradigm Shift are closed.
Shortoff Mountain North: All climbing routes, cliff rim, and campsites within the red band marked on the map are closed to entry. No foot traffic or camping above or below the cliff in this section. Contact the USFS for more details: 828 652 2144.
NC Wall/Apricot Buttress/The Camel: On the NC Wall, all routes between and including Tightrope and Bumblebee Buttress are closed. Apricot Buttress and The Camel are closed.
Bynum Bluff: All routes are closed.
The CCC has created the list linked below of accessible and inaccessible climbing areas with some caveats. If you decide to head out for a day of climbing, please do not attempt to go to those marked ‘inaccessible’. Please note that all areas in WNC will have extensive tree damage and if you head out, use extra caution for all the trees above, especially on a windy day. Rock fall potential is also highest after a big weather event. Please use extra caution while climbing and prepare to self rescue if injured. Injury response time will be greatly limited for any injury currently, especially for a remote injury. Cell service is limited in all areas. Parking at accessible crags in the WNC/ Upstate SC region will likely be challenging. If the parking lot is full, go to a different area and do not park illegally or in a road. Make a plan B before leaving your house. Expect road detours on the way to the crag. NCdrive.gov updates road closures. Once you get to the crag, expect many trees blocking access trails and of course, come volunteer with the CCC to help us bring our climbing areas back!
carolinaclimbers.org/conten…
carolinaclimbers.org/conten…
Description
There are many broken up cliff lines on the west side of Linville Gorge. The Gold Coast refers to the section that lies below the Rock Jock Trail. There has been a fair amount of undocumented exploration on these walls over the years, but many of the explorers only made the trip a hand full of times due to the traditionally heinous approach to these cliffs. One party even bushwhacked over from the east side, not realizing that there was a road on the western rim! But the recent re-construction of the rock jock trail and the significant hiking traffic nowadays has made for a pretty reasonable approach.
Getting There
Locate the Kistler Memorial Hwy on the west side of Linville Gorge. Directions below are referenced by driving north on this gravel road.
The best approach to everything from the south end up to Zen Canyon is this:
If driving north on Kistler, park in a small spot on the left (west side of road) 7.2 miles from the beginning of the gravel section. Locate the "drainage ditch" which is the trail head. It should take about 10 minutes to hike down to the RJ this way, as opposed to 35 min if traversing in the whole Rock Jock. Once at the RJ, to get to Razors Edge and Zen access trails turn left. To get to Moonshine and Underworld access trails turn right. Further approach info can be found under the respective canyon access.
If climbing at Bluejay canyon and north the best approach is this:
Hike in from the north end of RJ. Either start at the Conley Cove trailhead and hike south to the intersetcion of the Rock Jock trail (longer way), or park 1/4 mile south of Conely Cove at a faint parking spot located in the steep S curve (there are several spots). The old path is nearly gone but the start can easily be found at a tree with a big X spray painted on it and a rock cairn. Walk a minute or less through the woods to the RJ and turn right. There are many smaller cliffs within about 5 minutes from the car. Hacker's Point is about 15 minutes and Bluejay is about 20-30 minutes (just past "blue jay falls"). It is the drainage gully ("canyon") where the trail turns sharply uphill and crosses come large down tree's. Instead of going up, just go down the drainage.
For good smartphone-compatible maps, look here: lgmaps.org/?page_id=10
The best approach to everything from the south end up to Zen Canyon is this:
If driving north on Kistler, park in a small spot on the left (west side of road) 7.2 miles from the beginning of the gravel section. Locate the "drainage ditch" which is the trail head. It should take about 10 minutes to hike down to the RJ this way, as opposed to 35 min if traversing in the whole Rock Jock. Once at the RJ, to get to Razors Edge and Zen access trails turn left. To get to Moonshine and Underworld access trails turn right. Further approach info can be found under the respective canyon access.
If climbing at Bluejay canyon and north the best approach is this:
Hike in from the north end of RJ. Either start at the Conley Cove trailhead and hike south to the intersetcion of the Rock Jock trail (longer way), or park 1/4 mile south of Conely Cove at a faint parking spot located in the steep S curve (there are several spots). The old path is nearly gone but the start can easily be found at a tree with a big X spray painted on it and a rock cairn. Walk a minute or less through the woods to the RJ and turn right. There are many smaller cliffs within about 5 minutes from the car. Hacker's Point is about 15 minutes and Bluejay is about 20-30 minutes (just past "blue jay falls"). It is the drainage gully ("canyon") where the trail turns sharply uphill and crosses come large down tree's. Instead of going up, just go down the drainage.
For good smartphone-compatible maps, look here: lgmaps.org/?page_id=10
Classic Climbing Routes at Gold Coast Cliffs
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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