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Thunder Luck
5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British PG13
Avg: 2 from 1
vote
| Type: | Trad, Alpine, 500 ft (152 m), 4 pitches |
| GPS: | 40.54914, -111.73492 |
| FA: | Nate Brown & Tyler Phillips 2001 |
| Page Views: | 297 total · 9/month |
| Shared By: | Tyler Phillips on Feb 27, 2024 |
| Admins: | Drew B, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane, Nathan Fisher |
Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed
Details
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
Description
P1- Climb up steep left facing corner, near it's end find a fixed pin and slide slightly right and make a belay. 5.9
P2- Easier climbing up low angle cracks lead up and right on a nice belay ledge. 5.7
P3- Climb the short left facing corners to a sloping belay ledge. 5.8
P4- From sloping ledge climb out right and find a wide crack that juts to the top of the buttress. 5.8+
We watched a massive swirling black cloud dropping rain on Snowbird while we did the last two pitches. Somehow it never made it to us! Hence the name.
Some of the pitch details might be off a little as I write this up 23 years later.
Descent: We opted to foolishly downclimb into Upper Bells. It was highly committing with serious downclimbing. I would not recommend doing that. Try and slide East along the ridge to the shoulder then hike down the East ridge.
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