The Gladiator

Put up ground up via a two day affair in January of 2024. I think many people over the decades have spotted this spectacular unclimbed dagger hanging far up at the lip. There is even a abandoned couple bolts at the top on the right side showing someones attempt to rap bolt the right side of the dagger. Severely steep and incredibly loose rock stopping the attempt, I'm sure. I envisioned a different way that turned out to be absolutely incredible, up the left side. This one still took a lot of cleaning. The roof is bouldery, steep, and powerful. Definitely a step up from Roman Candle mentally and physically but not as hard as the Roman.

Climb "Too Loose for Pleasure" at M5/6 R for about 30 ft. Way better climbing then it looks. Optional beak placement at the start to back up the KB. Singles from.4 to #4 will give you plenty of options to protect. I feel that the R rated climbing in this section is on pretty easy terrain, although loose. At a nice rest, below the bolt on that route, climb a WI4 smear, place a screw, and then traverse right to bolt #1. From there an optional fixed beak can be clipped before bolt #2. Gaining the roof feels like tenuous M7. Now prepare for battle. Big move after big move, with possibly your feet cutting if you haven't been doing your core training. Eventually land at the jug behind the dagger. Commit to the strenuous ice roof for a few moves. Pull over and clip the chains. Really incredible movement!!! And wild at that.

The anchor is more spread out then it should be. I spent a lot of time really thinking about the best rock for the anchor, which meant spread out. The old abandoned rap placed bolt above is incorporated as a back up, because it was there. 

Also should note, if the WI4 smear isn't there, you could climb up to the bolt on TLFP, extend it, and then traverse right on rock to the first bolt. OR if the ice is bad and won't accept an ice screw, I'd do this as well. Really manage rope drag well before the first bolt. You could also climb this line dry if you wanted. But avoid doing it in summer. Go rock climb instead. The ice on it also makes it super classy!

Finally, place your belayer in a safe spot! Rock fall should be minimal now but expect to possible kick off small foot holds on the first 30 ft. 

Directly left of Roman Candle. You'll see a small dagger most years. 2024 was a banner year for this dagger and it was bigger then most years.

Singles from .4 to #4. Optional beak. Maybe 8 alpines, double length sling, draws for bolts.