“La Peter Arête, Pal”

The first route in the area was established in the late 90s/early 00s by Peter Gram. From the very toe of the downhill-facing edge of the left buttress, climb past two bolts to a vertical crack requiring a couple pieces of finger-sized gear to a chossy ledge. From the chossy ledge, clip a couple bolts and move gently on choss plates to better rock. (It's unclear to me if this chossy section was always that bad or a result of rock scorching during the 2011 Las Conchas fire--the rock is pretty bad.) Climb through a series of steep roofs past six more bolts to the anchors.

Alternatively, avoid the low start that requires finger-sized gear and come in from higher on ledge on the start of the closed project route, UFO Tofu. Climb past a few bolts on UFO Tofu, using a long draw on the second and third bolts, to join this route at the chossy ledge below the steep climbing. 

The southern most downhill tip of the main wall and look up the wild overhanging face/arête. 

Finger-sized gear down low to eight bolts on the overhanging upper half to an anchor.